Ball Valves

Clean County

New Member
Na, not today. [spin]

Another point that Nigel and I discussed was that by using 0 degree nozzles, you have lees of heat loss vs a 25 or even a 15 degree.

0 degree are aggressive, don't get me wrong. But that's what makes them clean so good.

There is an attachment for using turbo nozzles for our surface cleaners. Never used them because of our heat issue,
Hey Jim I know your a big hi heat guy. Where do you find the ball valves that can handle on a consistent bases dealing with 300 degree heat?
One of my Powerwashers I'm having problems with it spiking up to 300 degree heat. I have to look into the thermostat/hi limit switch but I can say this. Its scary when the heat gets that hi. The ball valve immiedetly wouldnt work and the hose or fitting looked like it was going to give way any second. Not a pleasant site for us and down right scary. You must use a Distributor that consistently deals with this extreme heat because the parts on my machines I don't think can handle those heat temps on an ongoing bases.
 

Mark

Moderator / Sponsor
We have a ball valve rated at 300 degrees F. @ 3050 PSI 3/8" FPT with teflon seals.
 

Torque454

New Member
I haven't had any luck with any ball valves. They all get tough to turn on and off especially under pressure. I dont use a zero degree tip very much either. Often times I dont even run my heat up over 200 degrees.
 
Hey Jim I know your a big hi heat guy. Where do you find the ball valves that can handle on a consistent bases dealing with 300 degree heat?
One of my Powerwashers I'm having problems with it spiking up to 300 degree heat. I have to look into the thermostat/hi limit switch but I can say this. Its scary when the heat gets that hi. The ball valve immiedetly wouldnt work and the hose or fitting looked like it was going to give way any second. Not a pleasant site for us and down right scary. You must use a Distributor that consistently deals with this extreme heat because the parts on my machines I don't think can handle those heat temps on an ongoing bases.

look like Mark has some ball valves.

You are right, heat can be a problem with hoses / quick connect/ Ball valves, etc....

As far as quick connects, we only use Hansen. Made in USA. Legacy SS QC are made in china. The quality is 1/3 of that of Hansen. I have one Hansen from 1990. It is a huge design quick connect, but it still works.

You get what you pay for. I understand, especially starting out, that one may not be able to buy high quality parts. But when you can, you will find out that these parts will out last the cheaper parts and in fact, will cost less in the years to come. Basically you will not have to keep buying the Chinese parts over and over again if you buy 1 quality part from the USA.

In the case of Hansen quick connects VS Legacy....

W found the Legacy lasted a whopping 4-8 months with our specs....

The Hansen.....19 years and counting.
 
I don't recall the brand of the ball valves we use, but they are top quality, rated at 7500 PSI, and I have consistently pushed 250 degree + through them for years without any issues. I maintain them and they have yet to fail me. I have tried the smaller ball valves and they are are useless. Maybe for a low pressure chemical line, but absolutely worthless under pressure.

Ballvalve.png


Hansen quick connects and plugs, nothing else compares. I have never had a Hansen quick connect or plug ever fail.

I know this thread is about zeron degree tips, but I'm not the first one to sideline the thread. Good thread, regardless.
 

Staff

Administration Team
I just pulled the above threads from the zero degree nozzle thread and started a ball valve
thread with them.
 
Thanks. Probably something I should of done, since the original zero tip thread was unintentionally diluted with the ball valve questions.

Both great threads.

I just pulled the above threads from the zero degree nozzle thread and started a ball valve
thread with them.
 

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