Total time?

Hit the Deck

New Member
Hey guys,
Assuming the deck is getting washed and sealed. How long in total time does it take to do it? I realize there is alot of variables, I'm just looking for an average time.
Thanks, Cliff


------------------
If you stop to think to think and stop, you'd stop and think to think and stop.
 

Dakotawash

New Member
Hey Cliff, Average time? About 4-5 hours for a typical 12 x 12 deck or so (washed and stained), but as you stated ,there is alot of variables! Just remember, if you think that a job will go real easy, it probably won't. Don't get frustrated and schedule your jobs with enough time in between so you are not hurried and do a poor job. Take your time, and the customer will see the difference and appreciate it.
Jerry

------------------
 

Hit the Deck

New Member
Thanks Jerry........I appreciate the input. I plan on taking my time. The first one will probably take me all day to wash it and another one to seal it.......lol.
Later,Cliff

------------------
If you stop to think to think and stop, you'd stop and think to think and stop.
 

JR Wood

New Member
A 12 X 12 deck takes me an hour and a half to clean or strip and an hour and 15 minutes to seal or stain add. a half hour if it is a second floor.It's roughly 1 hour per 100 sq ft.A 12 X 12 deck(without lattice)comes out to:
DECK 12X12= 144
Rails and spindles 36 linear ft. @ 3.5 ea. = 126
3 STEPS 4X3 = 12
Total = 282
That should be your price also.



------------------
J.R WOOD POWER WASHING*1-800-782-9919
ABACUS DECK CARE*1-866-7-ABACUS
J&B SNOW PLOW*1-973-328-6650
SHOWCASE LAWNS OF NEW JERSEY*1-866-SHOCASE

DID SOMEONE SAY DIVERSIFY?
 

Hit the Deck

New Member
JR,
Did you include materials with that figure? Or is that added on after? It seems to me that the price would be higher. Just wondering.........Cliff

------------------
If you stop to think to think and stop, you'd stop and think to think and stop.
 

Ken @ Pro-Coat

New Member
Hey Fellas!

That cleaning and sealing time. Is that all done in the same day? Or is it a two trip process? Any drying time needed after the cleaning, and before stain application? What is the preferred; oil based or waterbased stains?

------------------
 

Hit the Deck

New Member
Ken,
You need to wait 24 to 48 hours before sealing. The wood has to be dry for the sealer to adhere. I'm going to be new at this kind of work in the spring. I've been told that a product called Ready Seal would be the best choice for the sealer. I'm chosing this product over the others because you don't have to strip the sealer off the next time you do the job. You can apply the Ready Seal (after a mild wash) 3 times before you have to strip the deck. All the other brands need to be stripped before you seal it the next time. I hope that makes sense.
Take care, Cliff

------------------
If you stop to think to think and stop, you'd stop and think to think and stop.

[This message has been edited by Hit the Deck (edited January 24, 2001).]
 

JR Wood

New Member
That comes out to $1 per sq ft.which includes everything.In the area where I work this is the price.It all depends on your market.You are talking about...
2 gallons of sealer @$18 ea
1 gallon of cleaner concentrate @$6
.5 gallon gas @ .75
1 stain pad @ $1.50
1 disposable Drop cloth @ $1.60
TOTAL $45.85

282.00
- 45.85 =$236.15
If you take into account trvel time(15 mins.)
comes out to 3 hours @ $78.71
That's what I'm talk'nbout
(keep in mind your first 20 or thirty decks might take you 2 or 3 times longer but that's biz.

------------------
J.R WOOD POWER WASHING*1-800-782-9919
ABACUS DECK CARE*1-866-7-ABACUS
J&B SNOW PLOW*1-973-328-6650
SHOWCASE LAWNS OF NEW JERSEY*1-866-SHOCASE

DID SOMEONE SAY DIVERSIFY?

[This message has been edited by JR Wood (edited January 24, 2001).]
 

JR Wood

New Member
I also want to tell you that if you intend to use ready seal, you might even go faster and make more money.I used to use Olympic Natural look protector plus which is extremely easy to apply and is virtually "goof proof".From what I understand ready seal is the same way.I sealed seven decks of various sizes in one day last year(with the olympic).
Here is my method if you are interested.
first I do the inside spindles by hand...just the spindles not the rails,this saves a lot of sealer and believe it or not it doesn't take long at all,unless it is a big deck,then I break down with a drop cloth and spray.Then I go to the outside and do the spindles and rails five from the house by hand(wherever the deck meets the house).This eliminates the need to mask anything unless you are really sloppy.Then I just spray the spindles right on to the deck.This takes no time at all and with the ready seal it will blend right in when you do the floor.Then I go up and spray the floor.I always keep a wet rag in my pocket as well as a dry one and a bottle of diluted cleaner.This way I do not even mask the siding if it is vinyl ,anything else has to be masked.You just wipe as you go and it is a lot faster than masking everything off.Always keep a two gallon bucket of water handy ,because when you get a concrete pad at the bottom of the stairs you just wet it down and then just rinse it off when you are done and the sealer washes away.

If I think of anything else I'll edit the post(keep in mind this will only work with ready seal,anything else you have to use dropcloths and watch out for drips and runs)


------------------
J.R WOOD POWER WASHING*1-800-782-9919
ABACUS DECK CARE*1-866-7-ABACUS
J&B SNOW PLOW*1-973-328-6650
SHOWCASE LAWNS OF NEW JERSEY*1-866-SHOCASE

DID SOMEONE SAY DIVERSIFY?
 

Hit the Deck

New Member
JR,
That's excellent! I pasted that post with alot of others and put it in with my deck notes. Have you ever heard of a plastic masking board? I've been an industrial spray painter for 17 years. I use them to lay against the part I don't want paint on. You can get them at Home Depot. If you were to place the masking board between the deck and the house, you would illuminate alot of masking and in your case some wiping. I like the idea about the bucket of water for the concrete pad. Again, thanks for all the help. Great posts!
Take care, Cliff

------------------


[This message has been edited by Hit the Deck (edited January 25, 2001).]
 

Ken @ Pro-Coat

New Member
Just to add to Cliff,s comments on spray boards; we use corrugated cardboard. Go to the appliance stores, motorcycle shops, etc. and "recruit" fresh cardboard boxes(usually direct us to the back or dumpster area) that have some length to them, slice 'um down with a utility knife, cut out template to fit structure being painted (or not being painted), and set or tape in place and spray away.Their cheaper than spray boards or spray shields, and after a few uses we trash them.

------------------
 

Mike Hughes

New Member
What JR has suggested with the concrete pad is good, but......if you do it, be sure to pay very close attention that you keep it wet the whole time.......because, once Ready Seal penetrates concrete, its a done deal........



------------------
Mike Hughes
Everclear
Souderton, PA
 

JR Wood

New Member
I have one of those plastic masking boards.I think they will work with the ready seal but I know they are useless with other stuff because the sealer builds up on it and drips all over the place and seems to run down the siding.Mike is right,some sealers do soak right in to concrete.When ever I use wolman I put a cupfull of simple green in the water.With the Olympic I didn't have to...This also works with concrete that runs down the side of the stairs sometimes.I carry one of those pump up quart sprayers and just soak down the area right before I spray and then soak down again and it runs right down.I usually do th top of the stringer by hand to minimize over spray.

------------------
J.R WOOD POWER WASHING*1-800-782-9919
ABACUS DECK CARE*1-866-7-ABACUS
J&B SNOW PLOW*1-973-328-6650
SHOWCASE LAWNS OF NEW JERSEY*1-866-SHOCASE

DID SOMEONE SAY DIVERSIFY?
 

Hit the Deck

New Member
Ken, Mike, JR........thanks. If you think of any thing else............keep it coming.
Take care, Cliff

------------------
 

PUREPOWER

New Member
Cliff,

I have also tried the plastic sprayboards on decks, ran into alot of drips, too much backbrushing.
I went with the cardboard as well as JR. It soaks up the stain so it does not drip all over.

I learned my lesson with wetting concrete. I let concrete dry on a pretty large job, not paying attention, got overspray ALL OVER pool deck, pool liner, and assorted furniture. It came off of the liner and furniture but nothin' doin' on the crete.

You just don't know how far that stuff can drift when that little whisper breeze is goin' on. That ended up as an insurance claim. Lesson learned. Now I have a pump sprayer beside me with 30% industrial ammonia solution for siding, glass, and concrete. It works great on water based stains.

Jordan

------------------
 

Mike Hughes

New Member
Originally posted by PUREPOWER:
Cliff,

I have also tried the plastic sprayboards on decks, ran into alot of drips, too much backbrushing.


If you use Ready Seal, backbrushing is not really necessary. The fact that cardboard absorbs the sealer is nice, but the plastic is heavier and flops around less. I have been using some panelling, like you would find in an old basement.......my brother ripped it out of his living room......and I keep them on the front of my trailer.....they are 4 foot wide, and a little over 6ft tall.



------------------
Mike Hughes
Everclear
Souderton, PA
 

Ken @ Pro-Coat

New Member
Hey Mike,

Your talkin to "Cardboard King" here, try takin' 1x2 firring strips if the cardboard flops around and secure it with duct tape. We've even made spray shields out of cardboard and 1x2's for handles and take duct tape and double over the edge to make it a sharper clean edge that can be wiped.


One question that pops up on this deck work: I have always found for proper pentration to the fiberous substrate of wood(and we almost always use airless spray rig to apply), a good backrollin' and brushin' is a definite to at least one coat of the product, to get good, even penetration, and flow of product being used? With out that, it lays on the top and is ready to peel off within a year.

------------------
 

Mike Hughes

New Member
Originally posted by Ken @ Pro-Coat:

One question that pops up on this deck work: I have always found for proper pentration to the fiberous substrate of wood(and we almost always use airless spray rig to apply), a good backrollin' and brushin' is a definite to at least one coat of the product, to get good, even penetration, and flow of product being used? With out that, it lays on the top and is ready to peel off within a year.


With sealers that penetrate into the wood, like Ready Seal (note, there are others like it, but Ready Seal is the only one I'm familiar with) you do not have to backroll or backbrush it, and it soaks in real fast on its own. So fast that it can even be rained on just 15 minutes after you are done sealing the deck!

When I spray a deck with ready seal, I do the rails and spindles first, usually with one heavy application.......then I do the horizontals with two or three light coats. Any inconsistencies blend in when it's all said and done.

Also, down the road, it will never peel. Since it penetrates and does not form a film on top of the wood, it will just look faded when it is old. Because of that, you will not have to strip it the next time you want to reseal......just give it a light cleaning and reapply.......it's great.

------------------
Mike Hughes
Everclear
Souderton, PA

[This message has been edited by Mike Hughes (edited January 27, 2001).]
 

PUREPOWER

New Member
Hey Mike,

I have tried the paneling and thin plywood game.
I found that the cardbord works better for me. I am known for connecting fir strips to cardboard also. I guess it is all what you become most comfortable with.

As for back brushing, again, it is what you are comfortable with. I feel that the first coat has to be backbrushed or backrolled. I use an airless sprayer as well, but it does not take long at all to backroll the whole deck. If you do that after your first coat, you can apply second coat sooner. I walk right on my first coat to do this. I do use a water based product.

Everyone has great ideas on what they do, and how they do it, and maybe someday we will all adapt to different techniques. If you are making money...do what you do.

My 4 cents

Jordan
beer.gif


------------------


[This message has been edited by PUREPOWER (edited January 27, 2001).]
 

Our Sponsors

Top