Hi BIGBOY [acid]

R

ron

New Member
BIGBOY its ron again, hope all is well with you. I know you mix your HF 50/50 and have a metering valve so you control the amount of draw. I pay $65 per 5 gal. when i can get it.
My problem is i mix at 1 gal to 4 gal water with a 20% draw[most of the time] and i cant get a handle on when the acid reaches the wand. I am looseing a lot of chem. i cant get the'flashing thing down' I see you have a new camera could you send a snap of your metering set up.
I NEED to get better or wont have to worry about washing anything anymore.
I have gone as far as having 3 five gal. buckets with dif. HF mixs in them. my supplier ran out[hf] and now im brushing everything and its getting dark too soon.
Most of the washers in my area have stopped washing trucks because they cant make money because they wont use HF[safety reasons ] and have to brush everything.
The one guy that used to wash the trucks im washing, now uses a stronger mix of PH as his only acid.
[safer ?] he brushes all cabs and uses PH on the bodies and his own soap. Also he has 2 machines and a 3 man crew. $40 a truck and 15 min. each has to do them on a sat and pay his help time and a half.[a big truck co. 60 trucks]
i see the type of rigs you wash and everyone tells me i can get better[faster] at washing them but damn if i can figure it out[the trucks i wash are pigs] 10 year old MACKS, that the bodys were painted with a brush,stack black from the front to the rear[also some have old heated bodys that leak exsaust all down the bodys. The tailgates all diesel where they feed the aspault into the hopper. The hydrolics all leak and the asphault is all over the brakes. The tires are all muddy and the paint comes off if you use too much pressure. On the alum. bodies they get all messed up and the owner wont let me use ANY TYPE OF ACID. There is dried aspault all over them that i cant get off[i bought some stuff from RON ST--------- at $35 per gal. that didnt do a damn thing. OIL DEVIL] COULD'NT AFFORD TO USE IT IF IT DID.
If you have any ideas that could help me i would be thankfull.
Next year im going to have to look for a new customer base [over the road type] with something besides a dirt yard to work out of.
Would you move the truck,raise the body, degrease,tilt the hood degrease and clean, put the body down,wash the truck and then move it back for $35 per truck? or am i wanting to work for myself too bad and being stupid. By the way truck ins. $2200 and liab. ins $1200 this is for a 91 ford pick up sorry for the long post but i am at the begining of the end before i even get going.
 
S

Scott Stone

New Member
Helpful hint time.

For Asphalt, if there are chunks it will take more work, if there are just oils, not so much.

Go to Home Depot and get a gallon of WD-40. Spray it on the oil, and or Asphalt. Let it work its magic for 5 to ten minutes, and hit it with a strong degreaser. E-mail me for the one I use. People get upset if I mention names.

Spray the WD-40 on everything that has asphalt on it. You can also use a citrus based cleaner, but it is not as readily available. The secret is to let it soak in, and if it has been on the truck a while, you might need to soak a few times.

On bare metal, to knock off the chunks you can use a zero degree tip. You will still need to wash the truck after using it, but it will get the big chunks off.

As with anything, the chemicals are the secret. If you apply them stronger, than they will usually be more effective. They are also more effective with hot water than cold, and if they have some dwell time.

Give me an e-mail or call if you have questions.

The-washer@Msn.com

and my number is listed below.

Scott Stone
 
Larry L.

Larry L.

PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
Tough time isn't it,its fixen to hit us truckwashers like it is everything else,as in getting maybe slow,hopefully not but it done showing in some area's.
The metering valve is nothing more than a PVC ball valve as knowing how strong the chemicals are in the chemical tanks as to how much you can turn it as to wide open or just a little bit,,in that it will determine on how big your chemical lines and ball valve are as to knowing how far to turn as to its stenght.
On your mix rate (acid)try going to 1 to 3 instead of 1 to 4 with your draw rate.

Flashing is simple with a double lance,try turning it on and counting as to how long it takes it to get to the end of your spray wand,turn it off as soon as its gets there and count as to how long it takes it to all get out,that should give you a ideal as to how much or how long to leave it on before turning it off as to how much acid your needing to flash it."hint" your downstreamer has a breaking point as to when it will turn on,you do not need to drop all the psi at the wand to get just a little as in the strenght you need when flashing.If you'll stand and watch the downstreamer work(clear chemical lines) as you turn the duel lance slowly you will see the downstreamers breaking point as to draw just a little,the more you open it up the more it will draw the strenght you need when flashing.If you'll notice in the picture I have small lines and ball valves which also has alot to do with your strenght when upstreaming and downstreaming.Its not wize to use small lines b/c alot of the powder chemicals cann't mix low enought in a gallon of water to get the strenght you need to draw for them to work.
Scotts advice with WD 40 will do the job,I use R-103XL,the WD will work faster and cheaper just be careful spraying around the battery as its flam'able.The R-103XL takes longer as in dwell time but will remove what WD cann't,to speed up dwell you'll have to brush..........acid will not take it off.
$35,if tams,yel,if I didn't have to move them far or if I could wash 3 or 4 before moving.I wash several on dirt,wade mud,blow dust back on it,gets all over me and holes,my rig,look like a pig some times but love it over bigger fleets.I would save time by not spraying degreaser under the body or hood before starting to wash unless baked on,raise the bed just enought to wash under it as to not let it down until done,I wash the front of the truck before raising the hood with one hand while holding the wand with the other(back psi off alittle with duel lance) the hood goes back down in the final rinsing.Your Hotwater and soaps should be all is needed on the motors,frames and under the body if washed every 2 or 4 weeks.Most owners and drivers of that type truck know they cann't get a 100% job for $35 dallors.I cann't remember what the name was but seen a link leading to 70% HF,that is as high as it goes for the % in HF in our trade.Will find the link and send to you,it looked to be a fair price if its strengh is in the formular.
Like I said before don't fight it trying to get faster as in speed as some do,that causes more harm in learning speed more then anything.Fighting with the wand to get speed will only slow you down,clean as you go,hahahahaha sounds easy huh meaning keep the wand on the surface,meaning you may have to turn,twist your body to clean as you go to keep the wand on the surface at all time,back up to get this and that takes time away from you.

this valve setup is not fancy but its on a working rig for speed,,,the six in a roll goes to up or downstream,the one setting to the side goes to the flo-jet which also works off all six valves. I can turn 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 different valves on at one time to the up,down or flo-jet if need be as to clean anything plus I have another valve on the supply tank line at the pump which I can cut the water back and make it pull more out of the chemical tanks to get the cleaning power I need.
 

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R

ron

New Member
Thanks bigboy you have 6 valves 1-soap 2-hf 3-ph 4,5,6? What do you use the flow jet for and how much hose [langth] will it deliver the chem to?
 
R

ron

New Member
also bigboy i dont get''washing the truck with one hand and holding the wand with the other'' what are you washing it with?
 
Larry L.

Larry L.

PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
LOL LOL......k

yel I know them hoods are heavy but I can raise most with one hand,reach up grap hold of the hood(most have a handle)handle,but a foot up against the bumper for more pulling power and I raise while the powerwasher is running,whats the only time my wand is not on the surface,,raiseing and lowering the hood,I bend down and put my shoulder under the top of the heavier hoods to get a helping left when closeing and again the foot goes against the bumper to help hold back as to not drop when closing.
It doesn't matter where I start washing on the truck but I will wash the front of the hood and front bumper before I raise the hood to wash off the motor on most trucks which means the powerwasher is running as to hold the wand with one hand and raise the hood with the other,,,I run a open gun which means NO trigger to let off to use both hands.
On the older Macks your washing that has oily motors I would not rinse the motor off,they'll stay cleaner that way and easier to clean next time.I've beening doing 6 that way for 7 years with NO problems under the hood.A truck has to be in pretty bad shape before I prespray degreaser as the soaps and hotwater will get most if its mixed right.
 
Larry L.

Larry L.

PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
I use the flo-jet for prespraying bugs mostly,I have it on a hose reel with 100feet of 1/4 psi hose,like your main 3/8 wash hose but smaller.I prespray every truck for bugs,front,front bumper,mirrors,windsheild,stacks and top,anywhere bugs hit with my soap mix.I gain my time back it took to prespray them b/c the bugs come off easier and faster.
I use the flo-jet to prespray everything you use a pumpup for,soaps,degreaser and acid,its alot faster b/c your not stopping to fill the pumpup or stopping up or tearing up plus it has a better spray pattern,I even use it to spray the R-103XL if its bad enough........O and one time I used it to get gas out of my truck for the powerwasher when it ran off of gas,ran a line from the flo-jet to truck gas tank and ran the other to the gas tank on the powerwasher.I had left my extra gas home and it sure beat letting the soap dry on the truck I was washing,,don't think a pumpup could have done dat.

3-soaps,,2-different acids and 1 wax total=6

1-soap tank--2 different kinds of soap mixed together
2-soap tank--may have up to 5 different but mostly 3
3-soap tank--just one kind
4-acid--HF
5-acid--PH with a bit of HF in it.
6-wax

 
R

ron

New Member
thanks again BIGBOY one more question for now. What langth[size] duel lance do you use?
To wash the bodys without putting them down i would need a long one.
I dont degrease anything except tailgate[other then useing my reg soap on eng. and undercarrage] never rinse underside or motor.
maybe you could tell me what im doing wrong or right
1-trucks MUST be moved 50 ft 2-raise body 3-tilt hood 4-start machine 5- use the first two min knocking off heavy dirt[needs time for hot to build and soap to come out] 6-start with motor 7-undercarrage 8-tailgate 9-drop body 10-apply acid[hood,doors,body-anything below the glass] 11-wash body and rims-tires 12-wash cab 13- wash hood[hood covers the whole front when tilted] 14-put hood down finish washing 15- turn off heat 16-rinse from top down with wax[rinseing the cab twice] 17-turn off machine 18-park truck 19 start all over again for the next i use the unloader and dont want to leave machine running with a closed lance
i might try a racket ball in the handle[keeps it open] and turn the hot back on when im switching trucks so the hot and soap are ready right away also was thinking of useing a FLO-JET to apply acid and have the hot soap already at the end of the lance to start washing off any acid that might get on the glass[is this a good idea?] what size flo jet would i need to spray out of say a 60 ft hose and not waste chem. or time? also if i did use a flo jet what acid mix would you use[say 1 galHF to 4 gal water?] or more like 1 QT to 5 gal.
i have a 100 ft of pressure hose and it takes almost 2 min for the chem[soap-upstream] to get to the working end. its hard to judge when the acid is at the working end [downstream] and im wasteing a lot of $ in chem[how can you tell when your acid is comming out? my guess is i should fill a bucket with very suddsey soap and count in my head how long it takes to come out of the downstreamer[sometimes you dont think untill you write it down]
What do think would be better for me the FLO JET or lean the timeing of the downstreamer?
 
Larry L.

Larry L.

PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
Don't see where you'd save much time.

I buy the longer wand and custom fit it to me(cut and rethread),on your type truck mine wand is 57 in. counting the gun,,I have shorter and longer wands for different trucks or different jobs.

No,I would stay with the downstreamer for appling the acid but if you have alot of bugs on the truck the flo-jet is faster at spraying than the pumpups or you could use it for appling your degreaser on the tailgates.it doesn't take replaceing many pumpups to buy a flo-jet which will last for a long time plus its faster.

When you start the truck go ahead and pull the handle to lift the bed and start raiseing it lowly as you drive the truck to the 50ft and have it fully raised by the time you get there(like they do when spreading gravel,slowly.) that is if they are tams dumps not trailer dump,trailer dump has a good change of turning over if raised on the go OR leave the motor running and start the bed up as your getting out of the truck(most will kick off when it gets raised).hmmmmmmmmmm
I would start with degreaseing the tailgate and wash the undercarrage while it dwelled.Don't know your cost on degreaser or WD 40 but the WD may be better than the degreaser on what your trying to remove,you can buy it in 5 gal. or 55 drums.

(1)start the bed up while getting out of truck.
(2)spray tailgate with degreaser.
(3)tilt hood
(4)Wash undercarrage,when done,open door of truck and start the bed down,shut door.
(5)apply acid as the bed is lowering,starting at the tailgate and as your going around and get on the other side start turning your acid off when past the cab,it should have enough in the line to apply to the bed and rims on that side if useing 100ft. of hose.
(6)start your washing with the tailgate and work your way around the truck getting the bed, body,motor,hood as you go around.
(7)lower hood,wash the front then as your starting on the bumper turn burner and soap off,turn wax on,finish washing the bumper with what soap still in the coils and line.(98% of the time I apply wax cold.)
Don't know if that will help or not in your speed but it should.
We all or most all one man teams waste alittle chemicals.

this is the back of dat yellow pete and I just washed it last week another week to go before it gets washed again,,yel nasty by then,ha
 

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Aplus

Aplus

New Member
Bigboy,
The link you posted does not seem to be valid. Are you referring to the Knock Out line of products?
 
Larry L.

Larry L.

PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
http://www.komfg.com/fleetwash.html#

Sorry guess I should have checked the link,this one should work.
 
R

ron

New Member
Hi Bigboy i checked out that site for acid with shipping to be cost effective i would need to get it in 55 gal drums[shipping is way high for acid]
i pay $65 per gal, i use 1 gal per 5 gal water[i will have to go to 1 1/2 per 5 gal-not strong enuff] so thats 3 five gal of mix, i use 1 gal per truck[mix]
so its $4 per truck for acid
$2 for fuel
$1.50 soap
i charge $35 per truck= 3 per 2 hrs $105-$22.50=$83.50 or about $42 per hour while the wand is going.
How do you do with the 1 to 1 acid mix, that would put my cost even higher.
now on top of that cost i need to add the cost of WD-40 to get the tack off.
What am i doing right and what am i doing wrong?
Also what will a turbo tip do to raw aluminum as far as getting the tack off?
I dont want to scar it.
also will gas in a pump up harm the painted bodys[maybe it will be better and cheaper then the WD-40?
Maybe i should ask for $40 per truck next year?
and get a 55 gal. drum to cut some costs[acid] dose acid freeze?
thanks BIGBOY
 
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