anti-freeze system

[mas3372]

I finally got my machine today. Very happy with it. I do however need to modify a few things. First I need to divert my unloader to the tank instead of the pump, second I need to think of an easy way to put antifreeze in it.

This is what I am thinking of. The machine as a 3 gallon tank for water that the hose hooks in to with a float valve. The intake on this is about 18 inches off the ground which takes away from the tank gravity fed water, I would need to keep my 300 gallon tank at least 18 inches full. So I plan on doing this.

1. Take the line from the small tank on the machine to the pump and put in a three way valve. Giving me one line to the pump that splits to a line to the small tank and a line to the big tank.

2. Keep the small tank full of antifreeze.

3. When I need to winterize it, just open the antifreeze line and pull the trigger to draw it in.

4. When I start up, turn the 3 way to fresh water, put the nozzle in the antifreeze tank and pull the trigger until I get the fresh water.

Can anyone tell me if they have done something similar or if they think this will work.

good idea, bad idea.

Is there a better way.

Any helps is appriciated.

Thanks, Mike

 

[Mark]

Should work fine. [hello]

If you have a vacuum switch or flow
switch activated fuel solenoid (burner)
you will need to change to a pressure switch
so your burner does not continue to run
when you are in bypass.

<i> Assuming this is a Hot HP Washer.</i>

 

[mas3372]

i was told that the burner shuts off when the unloader kicks in all secondary to me releasing the trigger.

 

[Mark]

That is correct!

If you have a vacuum switch or flow
switch activated fuel solenoid (burner)
you will need to change to a pressure switch
so your burner does not continue to run
when you are in bypass.

A vaccum switch, and possibly a flow switch
(depending where the flow switch is installed)
may not sense that the trigger is closed.

When you are bypassing water back to your tank
the pump is still pulling water in which would activate
a vacuum switch, and possibly a flow switch unless the
flow switch was installed between unloader and coil.

A pressure switch is activated (usually) when it senses
the system is operating under pressure.

Hope I am not confusing you.. [hello]

 

[mas3372]

Confused, Yes. Wow. These machines can get complicated. I believe that the dealer said it was shut off by a selenoid that worked off the unloader if that helps. I read through the owners manual and could not find the specific type listed.

To winterize it tonight, I just made a fitting that goes into the hose to the pump that hooks up to my air compressor and used that. Worked well. There is a lot more water in their than I thought.

I am now thinking to just do that in the off season as I will not be needing the antifreeze system. However, I think it would be a very convienant feature to have for times like this and come late fall. I plan on using pool anti-freeze as it is much less corrosive and safe for humans, and cheaper. The whole set up to make this work is really on the cost of a T, a ball valve and a little hose, probably about $10.

 

[chitty]

On the units I have assembled I always install the components in this order.Suction ,pump, manual valved bypass to tank, unloader, flow switch , boiler (coil), and on discharge (hot side of coil) manual bypass hose and wash wand /hose reel.
The flame front (fuel to boiler) can be easily controlled by installing a toggle switch to disarm these factory units that are designed to heat whenever there is flow or pressure. This allows running antifreeze through the whole system without burner activation.When winterizing ensure that you flow through the whole system, and cyle the unloader to ensure the water is purged from the return line too.
I typically use winshield washer antifreeze ,(winter style bug wash fluid) as it is about $2 a jug.It takes me 7 gallons to purge my system entirely.
( suctions ,pump,880,000 btu boiler with farley 3/4 inch coil, associated plumbing and 200 feet of 3/8 ' whitewater wash hose).
This has worked well down to -40C without any issues.Easy on seals etc.
As a note if you are cycling back to a tank for reuse again later make sure you check the freezing point every so often as it will get diluted.
Again as a note blowing down the system with compressed air only is not a sure way to winterize, as the remaining water residue will gather in the low spots and cause issues and possibly damage to some parts.
Hope this helps.

 

[mas3372]

Thanks Chitty. I do have a switch that turns my burner on and off. So it is not an issue make sure the anti freeze dosn't heat up. I don't have to winterize the hoses as I have those in my heated garage. It is just the unit. So I am hoping only a few gallons of anti freeze will do. I just wish my trailer would fit in my garage. Thanks for your help. I did the air thing last night as a last minute to make sure it got through the night. It only go down to 34 degrees but I wanted to be sure nothing would happen. Thanks again. Mike

 

[mas3372]

Mark,

The unloader is just beneath the burner and I believe they said that the water goes from the pump thru the unloader and back to the pump with out going thru the coil. I am sorry I don't know more about these.

 

[Mark]

Mike,

If you call me Tuesday morning between 8:00 AM PDT
and 3:00 PM PDT, maybe I can help you out! [hello]

 

[Doug Rucker]

Mark always has the answers.....

 

[Douglas Hicks]

I quit using antifreeze some time ago. My trailer is insulated and equipted with a propane heater and 2 of the 20 gallon tanks. I keep the t'state at about 40 - 45 ° F. During freezing season, Sept to April, the tank, coil and hoses are drained after each use.