Galvanized caged tank

JustMe

New Member
Anyone ever seen tanks that are pretty much square (250 gallon) and have a galvanized cage and nothing but a big drain valve.

I had one given to me and fits perfectly in my trailor and even has a galvanized bottom that is fork lift accesable.

What I am wondering is the best way to plumb the tank for a float valve, pump feed line, and a bypass line.

Here are the pics.

Here is the trailor
http://frontiernet.net/~hostilezj/test/image002.jpg

The tank
http://frontiernet.net/~hostilezj/test/image003.jpg

The valve
http://frontiernet.net/~hostilezj/test/image004.jpg

And the top cap
http://frontiernet.net/~hostilezj/test/image005.jpg

I did not put them inline cuz they are huge, but I thought this way you could see them better
 
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squirtgun

New Member
tote tank

Ron,
I have our rig set up with a tote tank like you are describing.I can take pics and try to post them.
I have it plumbed the way you have mentioned.
 

ron

New Member
i bought a float valve and drilled a hole in the top side of the tank as the feed.
Then i used GOOP[plumber's type from HD] and a FERNCO rubber fitting[also from HD] to attach to the outlet of the tank.
Then i made up a PVC pipe[1 1/2"] with a T to supply two wash unit's. I find the gray sprinkler system fitting's and hose clamp's work well to attach the 1'' supply line's that feed the wash unit's.
I also used small bulkhead fitting's in the top of the tank to route the return line's from the unloader's back to the supply tank.[not for use with UP STREEMING] tHIS WILL SAVE YOUR UNLOADER AND YOUR PUMP FROM OVERHEATING.
im sure a pic would be far better then what ive written.
 

JustMe

New Member
That sounds like something I may have to do, I have attached pics now of the tank so you can better understand the tank design and see if it is like squirtguns and yours.


I thought about drilling out the center cap on the dump valve and putting the feed line for the washer on there?
 
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squirtgun

New Member
tank pics

Justme,
I didn't get the pics today will try tomorrow.
Ron has described what I have done to our tank,except I ran 5/8" lines.I used a hudson float valve instead of an arm type(similar to those used in a toilet tank) valve.The hudson will cost you about $40 but it has fewer moving parts,than the other type.
I picked up the bulk head fittings at the local tractor supply,and used all poly hose barbs and fittings.I also installed a screen filter in between the water suppy and tank,and between the tank and machince.


I also noticed the valve on your tote is what I had to replace on ours.That valve is not sturdy enough,you should be able to get a replacement for it,from some place that sells tote tanks.I'll run outside and get pics now and try to post them.
 
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squirtgun

New Member
can not load pic

Justme,
I can't get the pics to load.Leave me aan email addy and I will send them,with descripyions of what each is.
 

Aplus

New Member
That looks like the potential of too much weight for a single axle trailer. I know you didn't ask, but it just struck me as an issue. The water alone could weigh about 2100 pounds.
 

JustMe

New Member
Trailer is rated at 3500 lbs I think, but I am going to beef up the frame where the tank sits and probably never run it full. Think it would be a problem half full.
 

B.E YOUNG Sr

New Member
If you are carrying water I hope you have trailer brakes.

Those totes don't have baffles in them. Things can get squirely real quick.
 

EXTREME

New Member
I have hauled water on a trailer, in a tote, with no brakes. Please don't be as stupid as I was. I didn't get in an accident or anything, only traveled about a mile at 20 mph, but that water will push and pull you everywhere. I would never do this again. Travel empty and fill as close as possible to the job site.
 

JustMe

New Member
Yup, it has brakes and I dont plan on carrying any water unless I have to, thanks guys.

How far do you think the float valve could be extended down into the tank without fear of breaking the pvc pipe that is extended into the tank if the water would slosh?

I just looked at the GVW for the trailor and it is 3500, like I said it has torsion axel with brakes, but I wonder what the raw weight of the trailor alone is. It is a TNT E712SC.

I wonder if the weight would be an issue letting it fill up while it's parked and then run it own before leaving or just valving it down to around 50-100 gals?
 
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JustMe

New Member
Well after finding out the max weight for cargo is going to be around 1750 I am on to looking at a 100 gal tank, can a 100gal tank with a float valve keep up with 8GPM? anyone doing this?

Uhg :)
 

Mark

Moderator / Sponsor
Remember you do not have to fill the tank, even if you do it will be fine while the unit is parked on site, you just dont want to drive very far with the tank full.

Or if you feel safer you can always go with a bigger trailer with heavier ratings.

:)
 

EXTREME

New Member
your tank keeping up with your flow will depend on the flow of your water source, and also depend on how long you will be washing.
 

Mark

Moderator / Sponsor
I suggest you use a minimum of a 3/4" supply hose, and a float valve rated for 15 gpm or more for less restriction, the flow through the hose and valve can vary based on the pressure.
 

Aplus

New Member
Driving with a half filled tank makes the trailer more squirley than a full tank. It's the wave inside the tank that causes the grief. Think of 1500# shifting back and forth.

I've got a tandem axle enclosed trailer with brakes on both axles. For traveling, I prefer to have the tank either full, or about 1/3 full. Reduces the wave factor.
 

the_GUNN_man

New Member
This is why I like buying a custom trailer. You pay a little more but I have 5200# tandem axles and my trailer has 12" crossmembers instead of the standard 24". I have two of those tote tanks and I hold about 500+ gallons. I would very rarely ever pull my rig on the road this full. I fill up on the lot and pull it around the lot full. I can uausally do about 60 - 70 cars when I am full. I use one tank for the wash water and the other for my DI water. I am probably over working my truck sometimes when I am full, I am close to 10,000# That includes the weight of the trailer which is just over 2500#. I usually only drive with 100 gallons in each tank. So that would put my driving weight at around 7500#. I also have 4 way brakes. How many of you guys have the brake adjusters installed, the ones that mount under the dash? I have one but someone told me you don't need them. I know that I have to adjust mine depending on how full I am. If I adjust it when I am full then when I am empty the brakes grab too hard so I have to adjust it to not be as sensitive. I just don't see how you would get the brakes to work properly without one. I was just curious because I don't ever hear anyone talk about them.
 

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