gutter damage - what to do...

john orr

New Member
Anything strong enough to remove the streaks is strong enough to remove the finish on guttering. On some gutters, the finish is more likely to come of - no matter what. As a general rule of thumb, the more you have to rub/scrub a gutter, the more likely you will remove the finish. Look at your brush, is it turning color? There are warning signs before you strike gold - or aluminum.
 

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Bleemus

New Member
From their website.....

Simple Green is extremely effective at cleaning siding (aluminum, vinyl, cladding, stucco, etc.) If your siding is not heavily soiled and you have access to a pressure washer or steam cleaner, a 1-part Simple Green to 30-parts water dilution would be best. If you will be manually cleaning the surface, use a 1-part Simple Green to 10-parts water dilution. Work in sections so that the Simple Green solution does not dry on the surface prior to rinsing. Best results come from starting on lower areas and working upward, to avoid making “clean streaksâ€￾ that are very difficult to even out.

If you are trying to remove grease buildup on your siding from a vented exhaust, manually clean the area with a 1:5 dilution using a rag or sponge. Test this dilution first and increase strength as necessary, to a strongest solution of 1:1. Wash in small sections and rinse with water before solution dries.

If your siding has a powder coat, you may experience some color runoff due to removal of oxidized paint. This removal is essential for maintaining your siding and in no way damages the paint or powder coat. If your aluminum is bare, please remember that Simple Green will remove all grease & soil. This means that you will have raw, unprotected aluminum exposed to the elements. We recommend using aluminum paint or some other sort of protective coating after cleaning to prevent oxidation of the metal. If the aluminum already has any sort of oxidation or discoloration from weather staining, Simple Green will not remove this. Simple Green will only work on dirt, pollution, biological soils, grease or oil that is on the surface.
 

Bleemus

New Member
john orr said:
Anything strong enough to remove the streaks is strong enough to remove the finish on guttering. On some gutters, the finish is more likely to come of - no matter what. As a general rule of thumb, the more you have to rub/scrub a gutter, the more likely you will remove the finish. Look at your brush, is it turning color? There are warning signs before you strike gold - or aluminum.


Nice brushwork John! Those gutters look like they need more than Simple Green. What did you use?
 

Larry L.

PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
Bleemus its great your trying to help but without being on the cleaning end of the wand you knowing as to what you say.Reading labels on chemicals as to how to do is only a safe starting point for homeowner.I agree with the others anything that will remove grease and oil will remove paint and wax.

It would be best to get on the cleaning end before you give out anymore info,anybody can get on the internet to find whatever or read chemicals labels.

You will find out it is more than scifi and more brain twisting than you think,please set back and read and get hands on knowledge before you give advice as to how to.
 

Bleemus

New Member
Larry L. said:
Bleemus its great your trying to help but without being on the cleaning end of the wand you knowing as to what you say.Reading labels on chemicals as to how to do is only a safe starting point for homeowner.I agree with the others anything that will remove grease and oil will remove paint and wax.

It would be best to get on the cleaning end before you give out anymore info,anybody can get on the internet to find whatever or read chemicals labels.

You will find out it is more than scifi and more brain twisting than you think,please set back and read and get hands on knowledge before you give advice as to how to.

I appreciate your advice but do feel qualified to dispense knowledge regarding chemicals and cleaning. Prior to becoming a land based businessman I spent 11 years working on sailboats eventually becoming first mate/engineer on a multi-million dollar yacht owned by a well-known Wall Street personality. As anyone who has worked on boats knows the variety of surfaces and the extremes of enviroment call for numerous solutions to cleaning. I have used such a variety of acids, solvents, degreasers, lubricants that it would boggle the minds of those who are land-based. I have used acids on hulls of boats that, if I screwed it up, would cost >100k to repaint and I am happy to report we never had to repaint it.

You are right though, I am not a chemical engineer by degree but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
 

Larry L.

PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
Thats all good and great but we aren't cleaning sailboats.

hands on is more than just reading and passing it on when cleaning cutters and it doesn't matter if you live in a mud hut or stay in hotels.

I also have the knowledge in detail work as in sailboats or auto's but I do not master in it.I too know what kind of chemicals,sealers and waxes to get a show room shine on wood,bare metal and painted metal.I do not go to a detailing boards that has professionals helping newbee's learn the right way and tell them I know more than they do b/c I do not master in it......know what I mean.
 

john orr

New Member
Bleemus said:
Nice brushwork John! Those gutters look like they need more than Simple Green. What did you use?

Actually, just Simple Green. Undiluted (after a test). Wipe on, rinse off.
 

Bleemus

New Member
john orr said:
Actually, just Simple Green. Undiluted (after a test). Wipe on, rinse off.

Cool, I tried the same today after years of using diluted Simple Green for certain jobs. Poured it full strength onto a section of one of my older downspouts and let it dry. Rinsed off fine. No damage.

Nice work John. I really need to get a longer pole for my brush! Hate ladders.
 

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