mi-T-M

peevo74

New Member
I was recommended a 3000psi 5 gpm pressure washer for residential work.I have found one made by mi-T-M but it has 2500psi and 4.4gpm belt driven will this do or should i go with a 3000psi and 4gpm direct drive.this seems to be a common one.If someone has ideas for another type or brand please let me know. thanks
 

rvagnoni

New Member
It will depend on what kind of residential work you plan on doing, but to be safe a 3000 psi at least 4 gpm is best.
 

Richard R.

New Member
Peevo74,
Take it from someone who is paying an expensive price for not finding this board soon enough to ask that same question.

Listen to Dan and Rick, buy the 3000 psi and 5gpm.
You can always turn it down but you can't turn it up.
I can assure you, your will need the extra psi and gpm if you are serious about this profession. Besides, there is no resale on the small one but nearly always on the larger one.
The list goes on and on.

Take Care
Richard R.
 

ron

New Member
3000-5gpm is the way to go BUT get a belt drive unit , not direct drive-they dont last as long as a belt drive. Also you may need to get a holding tank because some houses cant supply 5 gpm.
Heres a real good tip for you-i dont want to haul water if i dont have to so when i go to do the est. i take a 5 gal bucket with me. I use there garden hose to fill it, if it cant reach the top in 50 sec. i bring water AND use there water.
 
G

Glenn

Guest
Based on the choices you have I would go with the belt drive 2500 psi 4.4 gpm. That is the wise choice over the direct drive 3000psi 4 gpm. If available the 5.5 @ 3000 psi is the best choice. But as far a residential work is concerned gpm is more important. The only thing I use more than 2000 psi on is degreasing concrete. For roofs, decks, house washing, gutters etc. low pressure high gpm.
Glenn
 

Richard R.

New Member
Hey Ron, That's a neat technique. I've never thought of doing that. Great Tip and Trick.

Glenn, Maybe I misunderstood your post, but don't you think it would be better to get the 3000 psi and 4 or 5 gpm over a smaller unit. instead of later having to buy and additional machine to use on concrete? Isn't it better to have a machine you can turn down when you need to and have the extra power at your disposal in case you need it?
Just a thought.

Take Care.

Richard R.
 

Andy Wheatley

New Member
Had similar problem with water supply in an area I work in and I didn't want to carry water either. I looked at the float tanks normally sold with the units and 2 gal didn't seem enough. So I bought a 35 gal tank, bulk head adaptor, heavy duty Watts float valve, and filter and made one up. I've never seen it drop below 1/2 even with the worst of supply conditions.

PS. I'd go with the 5/3000 belt drive also you won't be sorry.
 
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G

Glenn

Guest
Richard,
Sure I say the bigger the better. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it, this aplies to more than PW's hehe. However, based on the 2 machines he told about in first post, I would choose the 4.4gpm, 2500 psi. #1, because it is belt drive and this is the most important, and #2 because it has more flow than the 4 gpm direct drive. If both units were direct drive then I might go with the 3000 psi even though I think it is really a toss up. However, having used a 4gpm 3000 psi for more then 2 years now, I'm stepping up to a 5.6 @3000. I'll take my old motor and pump mount them on a cart and use as a back up. Like Mike, I rarely use my water heater in residential work, but the higher flow will enable me to clean faster. I will still have the hot water available if needed, again better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Glenn
 

Richard R.

New Member
Glenn,
I hear that.
I've dealt with the latter the biggest part of my life.
I usually need it and not have it. :)

Richard R.
 

Aplus

New Member
I know the debate on belt drive vs. direct drive will still continue, but, decent quality direct drive units are less than half the price of the belt drive units. I have one of each, and honestly they both function well and get the jobs done identically. I got seven years out of a direct drive unit, including at least 400 deck cleanings, and many dozens of house washings. It was the Honda engine that finally started chattering and knocking, and the Cat pump is still working fine. Unfortunately there is no cost effective rebuild for Honda engines.

Now, I don't expect the belt drive unit is going to last 14 years, so I'd say in the long run, it's cheaper to just replace the direct drive unit even twice during the life of a belt drive, and bank the rest of the money.

I'll probably catch flak for this, but based on my experiences, I'd buy direct drive every time, it just makes better economic sense. This is based on a cold water unit, and hot water units may be a totally different situation.

Home Depot sells a dandy 13hp Honda, with Cat or AR pump, 3500 psi @ 4gpm, for $999.

Very hard to beat.
 

Sergei

New Member
Tony, I've got one of these Home Depo's 13hp Honda, 3500/4gal with AR pump. The unit itself works great but the wheels and brackets fell off (cheezy welding), soon I'll have to put it in a sports bag and carry around
:D
Which pump is better - Cat or AR?
 

Richard R.

New Member
Sergei,
Funny you said that. I bought Two of them from Sam's about a year ago and they did the same thing to me.
I took some small hose clamps and put them on instead of the caps.

Welcome to the Board Sergei.

Richard R.
 

Mark

Moderator / Sponsor
MY TWO CENTS!

I have been in the industry for over 20 years, and my experience tells
me that Belt Drive is Superior to direct drive, although one may get 7 years
usage with a direct drive unit that is certainly an exception to the rule.

Belt driven pumps run at 3200 - 3600 RPM the average belt drive P/w
runs the pump at about 1450 RPM,

We sell a 13 HP Honda direct drive for: @ $995
3400 RPM pump

and a 13 HP Honda powered belt drive unit for $1395.00
1450 RPM pump.

I have seen countless engines on direct drive washers outlast the pumps.

A common problem encountered on both direct drive and gear drive units
is the keyway on the engine shaft being elongated.
I have never seen this problem on a belt driven unit.

I would suggest spending the extra $400 initially, I do not believe you will
regret the decision in the long run.

:)
 

Richard R.

New Member
I don't believe I would argue with 20 years.
Especially when he tears them down and builds them.

My direct drive Honda 13hp is already struggling and it's hardly a year old. Sometimes they sound like they are not going to make it.
It's just yet another one of those things that I will have to pay for
by not finding this board sooner.
My two Cents

Richard R.
 

oguard

New Member
First: FLOW is ALWAYS better than pressure.

Second: pressure will cause more damage in unknowing or uncaring hands than flow.

Third: belt drive outlasts direct drive by at least a factor of 2.

Fourth: a mechanically decoupled unit will live to fight another day. In other words, a slipping belt will protect the other component should one fail; mechanically coupled units fail as a unit and require the replacement of all components.

Fifth: 3400-3600 RPM pumps will not last as long as those running at a maximum of 1725 RPM or less like a belt drive pump would be turning.

Sixth: you can always lower the pressure by using a larger tip. Since pumps are positive displacement the swept volume will remain the same and only the pressure will lower. Never, never, idle down an engine to lower your pressure. Pumps and engines are designed to work best at certain RPM's so keep them their and cheat with a larger tip.

Seventh: you can always get help with these and other concerns with a local professional pressure washer dealer. They are your neighbour and have a vested interest in your continued success. After they have your money, how much does a non-resident sales organization really care about your success? The local guy could be your Little League coach or you his.

Therefore, get the highest flow you can afford in a belt drive configuration, from a reputable local dealer, representing a reputable manufacturer building quality product that does not suffer from poor build conditions.

Hope this helps? Cheers.
 

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