paint oxidation on brick

B

Byron Mills

Guest
i need to find out if there is a cleaner that will take white aluminum siding oxidation off of brick. will muriatic acid take it off? thanks for any help!
 

Aplus

New Member
Hydrocloric acid will remove the chalking, but is very dangerous to handle. Do your homework before working with any acid based chemical. There are no second chances.
 

Paul B.

New Member
Depending on how long it's been on the brick, a straight water wash will sometimes remove it (about 1500 PSI with 40 degree tip).

If straight water doesn't work, a good detergent will most likely remove it (rinse same as above).

Muriatic = Hydrochloric acid should be used as last resort. Mix 1 part (30%) Muriatic acid to 3 - 6 part water. Test small area first with weaker solution. (Always add acid to water) Pre-wet brick until water rolls off and is not absorbed (otherwise the acid will be drawn into the brick and will be tough to rinse out. Best to start on shady side of building and move with the shade (if possible). Apply mix with low pressure (under 60 PSI), dwell 2-6 minutes. Do not let it dry on surface and rinse, rinse, rinse. (Wear safety glasses and gloves when mixing, wear safety glasses and appropriate clothing and keep bucket of water handy for safety).

Muriatic acid can leave a white film if you don't rinse enough. It can also etch glass and is abrasive on aluminum and other metals.
Read the label on your chemicals and follow directions.

www.Prosoco.com has solutions that will address this problem.
They also use a Muriatic/Hydrochloric base, but have detergent and surfactant added to it.

www.Diedrichtechnologies.com also offers masonry cleaning products.

Good Luck!
 

Aplus

New Member
Paul,

Most manufacturers of brick do not recommend high pressure cleaning. It is best to use chems to do the work, and use your pressure washer to just rinse.

In fact, there are so many different kinds of bricks that unless you really know what you are doing, to broadly recommend high pressure cleaning could be a recipe for disaster.

After seven years in this business, I have not found even one case where water pressure alone would effectively remove all the oxidation/chalking from brick. Same goes for using detergents.
 

Paul B.

New Member
Please RE-READ my post.
I think you'll find that I agree with you 98%.

I mentioned:
Water will SOMETIMES remove it (1500 PSI / 40 degree tip).
I didn't know if he's talking 10 sq ft or 30,000 sq ft.
Is it recent oxidation or has it been there 10 years?

I primarily talked of using detergent cleaners (Prosoco / Diedrich)
Prosoco - apply low pressure (under 60 PSI) rinse / rinse / rinse
Diedrich - apply low pressure (under 60 PSI) rinse / rinse / rinse

(Muriatic acid = Hydrochloric acid)

I said to use Muriatic acid as a last resort because it's not a detergent type mix like Prosoco / Diedrich solutions.
They have additives, such as surfactants that help with adhesion, etc., that a straight Muriatic acid will not have.

People in the masonry business use Muriatic acid all the time
but they don't always understand how to mix it.
Some folks use it at 50% dilution, some at 25% some at 10%.
Even today I see a lot of damage on bricks from improper use.

Prosoco / Diedrich and others use Hydrochloric acid as their base but they provide very specific information on dilution rates.
(Kind of making it almost "idiot proof".)

Prosoco has a very good web site. They have pictures that show different types of stains and problems. There they suggest proper use and chemical selection for each type of restoration / cleaning. They also have a catolog (about 1/2" thick) of their products. You can also retreive the MSDS sheets directly from the web site.

I also agree on straight pressure washing and different types of bricks and mortar colors.
Some constructions use 3-4 different color bricks and color mortar mixes. (If you're working with builders you can get the specifications from them or info off the prints).

Oh, we didn't mention to test small sections, or to clean from the bottom up.

He needs to do reasearch. If we tell him everything on the subject of masonry cleaning, we could write a book on it.

Like I said, we agree 98%.
 

dstay1

New Member
hi guys
i spent an hour yesterday at the local county courthouse watching a crew restore the brick and masonry trim. they used diedrich masonry restorer 101. the stuff is amazing. the restorer was applied by brush but spray would be easier, you just need to get it on the surface. it looked like they were using about 1000-2000 psi for rinsing. dwell time was 5 min. with each pass of the spray about twenty years of dirt came off. after 3 or 4 passes of clean water the brick and masonry looked beautiful. they started at the top and kept everything below wet with a garden hose.
i clean new construction brick and block with sureklean 600. it wouldn't touch the diedrich restorer, but i think sureklean makes a similar product.
i think i'm going to look into brick and masonry restoration work. it looked easy and it pays well.
duane taylor
taylor powerwashing
 

Paul B.

New Member
Prosoco does offer other products for restoration.
I use 600 Detergent and Vanatrol for most my new construction cleaning. Sometimes I have a builder who specs Diedrich 202 or 202V (Vana Stop). Both brands are excellent products.

Also, things aren't always as easy as they appear.

In this specific arena, I would have to say that new construction cleaning is the easiest compared to restoration being the toughest (overall).

New Cleaning.:
- You compete MOSTLY with a lot of 1 man, small companies.
- You can get the brick and mortar specs from the builder.
- You may only have to use 2 different solutions most of the time.

Restoration:
- You may have to compete with SOME of the "Big Boys".
- You have to test clean maybe with 4-5 solutions on a building before you find what works best. You will most likely not have the specs on the materials (brick, stone, grout, marble, etc.).
- You may also have different types of stains on each side of the building. Requiring different chemicals, dwell time, etc.
- EPA has a closer eye on restoration than on home building industry.

Nothing there that can't be done if you do your homework.
There is also good money in it.

Best wishes!

Regards,
 

Bill B

New Member
To follow up on Paul's comments, on new cleaning jobs you usually show up and do the job. On restoration you may actually perform your test work, and not do the cleaning for months - if you get the job. And as Paul said you may use many different products.

I have not purchased Jim Dietrich's products (yet), but I am extremely impressed with his knowledge of the industry and willingness to help out. He gets my nod over Prosoco - David and Goliath type of deal.
 

Paul B.

New Member
I never had to deal directly with either, but both companies seem to have some knowledgable reps in my area.

I'd just wish Diedrich would fix their web site.
The documents are unreadable. It's almost a waste of time going there.
 

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