Stained Wood Siding

[Tim Smith]

Got a call to give an estimate - Help please?

Stain has faded and mold and mildew noted.

I was thinking of using a Sodium Percarbonate to clean and a Oxalic Acid to brightnen (Thanks Greg).

Would you estimate this like a regular house wash (ex. $ per linier foot) or more?

Will the stain fade even more so?

I going to give a separate estimate on a seal job using Ready Seal. Probably will make the price of sealant separate in case it takes a lot.

Would I clean it like a deck (pressure, cure time, etc) ?

Any precautions to watch out for?

Anything I should tell the buyer concerning the results?

Any advice at all will be appreciated?

Is there anything else I should ask?


Thanks

 

[Jon Fife]

hey Tim,

There will probably be guys that are going to tell you to start out with an easier job, but i say you may as well start at the top. First off, DO NOT price this like you'd price an ordinary house wash. If you charged something like .75 cents per square ft, you should make out with 30-45 an hour. If i were you, i'd worry less about the price and more about getting the job and get something under your belt. Takes lots of before pics. You can always go back and take after pics, but only one chance for before's.

This house probably has some sort of finish on it, which may mean it will require stripping. Not a big deal, easier as far as i am concerned. If you are going to use Readyseal, make sure you spend some time on the phone with Pierce and let him give you a run-down of how to apply it.

If this house has 1500 sq ft of cedar siding, then your expenses should be around 350-400max. That is budgeting for 15 gallons of RS and 100 for misc. expenses. You should be able to clean that in a day, as well as a day to seal. That should give you a starting place to price it; plan your expenses and decide how much you want to make each day. Post specifics on the job and we can help give you a price.

good luck,

Jon Fife

My advice, don't bid yourself out of it. Stay on the low-end and get the job, as well as pics to show the next customer.

 

[Mike Hughes]

If you're going to use Ready Seal, you will have to strip it first. Ready Seal is a penetrating sealer, and cannot be applied on top of another sealer.

 

[rvagnoni]

You may also find that two coats of Ready seal are necessary. So make sure you cover yourself in the bid.

 

[Tim Smith]

The homeowners sprayed Thompson Water Sealer on home two years ago. Will I have to strip it?

 

[Peirce]

Sealing over Thompsons

Tim,

The cleaner may take the Thompsons off. But since it is a vertical
surface it may ot have worn off in all places. Re:shade vs.sunny
One way to test is to take a spray bottle and spray some water
on the wood and see what happens. If it repels it then there is
still wax there. The rule of thumb for me is if it does not absorb
water then it will not absorb sealer. If you have to strip then do
the whole thing and not just sections.

Peirce

 

[Tim Smith]

What would you use to strip?

 

[Jon Fife]

HD-80

woodstrip.com

Russ is from stl if you are going to their meeting, save on shipping costs, dont waste time trying the other stuff, hd-80 is far and away the best thing out there,

jon

 

[Tim Smith]

Jon

I am going to his meeting and will be taken a tour of his place.

What part of TN are you from? I am originally from Caruthersville, MO just across the river from TN. All my family is from Savanna, Satillo, & Jackson TN. Best BBQ in the world!!!!


Thanks for info
Tim

 

[ghouchu]

if you're just dealing with thompson's, russell has another product that he might recommend instead of the hd-80. obviously, he can tell you more than i can, but be sure not to limit your discussions to hd-80.

richard

 

[reedsterstl]

Hey Tim,

Looking forward to meeting you at the meeting in St Louis. Russ does have a cleaner that WILL take off a failed TWP or a water based sealer. It's called efc-38. Russ and I used it on a fence I did last season and I was really surprised. You do have to go behind it and apply a brightner. I have tried, on my own wood, about every stripper I can get my hands on and used different strengths with each one. I have been hard pressed to find anything that can stand up to the HD-80. I get flood stuff free from the distributor all the time, and their stripper won't take off CWF-UV, in fact, the only stripper I found that came close to touch that nasty stuff is HD-80. Give Russ a jingle on the phone or email him and he can tell you more about it.

One important fact to consider, use the chemical that best meets the needs of the job you are doing.

Reed