Your Method of Sealing?

[beng]

Greg, I sent an email to your email address from your TimberSeal website, never got a reply, and your toll free number, does not work from where I am located...therefore, would please email me at benguenette@videotron.ca, I have a few questions regarding price list and other costs of your product.

I am sorry to use this forum, however it seems to be working better this way...

I appreciate it.

Ben

 

[beng]

I apologize in advance for the extra long post.

Which product to use now? I have been gathering information (mostly from the net) on wood deck/fence restoration/maintenance for the past year.

I had found this One Time super sealer, never bought it, comes close to $100 canadian, plus shipping...However I ordered there Two Step product, first step is the cleaner/brigtener (sodium hypochlorite) and step 2 is the neutralizer (oxalic acid)...$20 us for both.

Then I found out that Home depot had Behr No 62 that is basically the same, (sodium hypochlorite) and Behr No 63, neutralizer (oxalic acid)...

Still, I guess I learn as I go, I found out that No 62 is the same as Javex, sodium hypochlorite at 5.25%, however much cheaper...

I started doing my fence, 10 years old, pressure treated wood, never stained or protected, greyed, wood turns black when watered...I cleaned/brightened it and it is now beautifull...then I bought Behr Deck plus Oil semi-transparent, natural cedar...it looks good, I think...I am only on quarter done, 1000 square foot fence (that's only one side)...however by reading all the critics from the forum, I planned to stop using it and switch to a better product, however I need a similar stain.

I have been looking at Menwood200, Wolmans, and I have been reading Ready seal from here...

I live near Ottawa (Ontario), and I believe that most products available here are: Behr, Thompson, Cabot, CWF (Flood)....

I am clueless as to which one to use...I may need to finish my fence with Behr...


I really like this forum, a very good place to share experience, I am learning a lot...

I promise the next post will be much shorter...

Ben

 

[Greg Rentschler]

Hi Ben,

Our toll free is nationwide.. not sure why it would not have rang through. In any case you can reach me direct at 219-405-4350 or on the toll free line at 866-WOODCARE (866-966-3227).

Thanks Ben.

 

[007]

ReadySeal would be the first chiose. Then Wolmans( you can get wolmans easier) It's better to use a penitrating sealer and easier to maintain. The other products you end up having to strip tp re-do.

 

[ShellBean_1]

Originally posted by rvagnoni
Got a two tone deck to do. White rails and redwood floor. Those of you with experience doing similar. What do you do to mask the floor from the white stain?

I would make this a two part process. Apply the redwood floor first if oil base .allow to dry for the rest of the day (24-48hours) then return w/ a drop cloth to do the rails. This way if you do get white on the sealed floor it should wipe right off.Hope this helps...

 

[HeavyChevy]

I'm currently using cardboard backer boards for the railings/spindles because they are FREE. 1/4" plywood seems like it would be expensive AND the wood does not absorb as much of the overspray as cardboard.

Question...how many uses do you get out of the canvas tarps? Do you wash them after a few uses? What about storage between jobs, garbage bags?

 

[Aplus]

The most important thing to remember about storage of the soiled tarps, is that they can self combust due to heat building up within.

I'm serious, tarps, old rags, etc, can self combust if they contain mineral spirits, or many oil based stains.

Want a real life story? Greg Rentschler had his van burn after rags caught fire.

The safest way to store the tarps would be to lay them out flat outside to dry before you store them in your trailer.

I don't think washing them is going to make much difference, the oil based stuff is not going to wash out.

It's probably best to figure in a few extra dollars from each job to pay for the tarps etc.

 

[tlhfirelion]

New Fence and other thoughts...

Hey guys. I had 2 questions for the group.

1) I have a deck that I just pressure washed and am waiting for a few dry days to stain/seal it. I have been told by an older guy at Lowes (this guy seems to know everything and his advice on other misc. questions of mine over the years have proven to be true everytime but I still want your guys advice) that a great way to get extra durability with your stain/sealer is to "pre seal" your deck with linseed oil. Now, I know lots of stains/sealers have oil in them but what do you think he means by this? Is this an "oldsters" trick that used to work but with the stains and other deck treatments out these days is it obselete? I have tried to find some articles on this technique but am not having much luck.

2) This next question is about as argued as the "bleach is a great/horrible deck cleaner" but I will ask anyways. I am having a new fence put up in a week. It is of course all treated wood (the new treatment (forgot the name) and I was of course told not to do anything to it for 6 months. However, I also hear that I should put a clear coat on it, but wait; no I shouldn't because it will cause it to rot from the inside, etc, etc, ETC. Whats the general opinion among you guys that have more experience in this line of work than I do?

Thanks for any and all advice you are able to share. Have a good week.

Tim

 

[Deck Works]

Don't use linseed oil to pre-treat it.

 

[CaroliProWash]

Linseed oil is food for mildew.....we actually avoid most stains because of the linseed base.

The bleach issue is never ending....please do the search thing on that topic! There is more conversation on that than you could read in a year!

You're in Missouri - You need to look up Reed Smith - He's a Deck God and he's in St. Louis.

Celeste

 

[reedsterstl]

Please Celeste I do alot of decks and would be happy to discuss them with you Tim.

As Celeste stated, try to avoid the linseed oil especially here in MO.

Give me a call.

reed

 

[jdmartin]

I use wolman products for brightening, sealing and staining. I have not had no problems with them besides the shade turns out a little darker than the samples. I would like to try this ready seal product sometime and just compare the two. I also use graco airless sprayer for the sealing and staining. Then back brush where needed.

 

[gms1190]

Where can one find a deckhand?

 

[Greg Rentschler]

Wow has this thread went through the test of time!

 

[CaroliProWash]

I use wolman products for brightening, sealing and staining. I have not had no problems with them besides the shade turns out a little darker than the samples. I would like to try this ready seal product sometime and just compare the two. I also use graco airless sprayer for the sealing and staining. Then back brush where needed.

James - if you use Ready Seal, don't use your airless. The stain will atomize beyond belief and you'll have stain on everything BUT the deck. Ready Seal works well with a Deckster - Sunbrite sells them.

Celeste

 

[jdmartin]

Never used ready seal, I plan on trying some later but the airless works good for me with the wolman products, stains and sealers. I will remember that though for ready seal if I try some, see you next week celeste.

 

[CaroliProWash]

Cool! You'll love seeing the strip/neutralize/stain demo that Russ Cissell will do in an hour with Wood Tux Wet! That's going to be a real treat!

Celeste

 

[gms1190]

We use the Deckhand sprayer to apply SK-60 Clear, a linseed oil base penetrating stain. With the ball valve on the Deckhand and the cone nozzle you can adjust the pressure to about 20 Lbs. We sell the SK-60 Clear and the Deckhand also.
Steven Rowlett
ROWLETT PRESSURE
CLEANING SERVICE

How much for the deckhand?
Partshark0@yahoo.com

 

[Tim Lynch]

How much for the deckhand?
Partshark0@yahoo.com

Too much and over hype. Get a shurflo pump 69 bucks, Get some chem hose from any local hardware store 50 feet or so I use 65 feet, goto walmart get the yellow Booster for cars, 45 bucks, get the Northern Tools extension wand 35 bucks, Goto Radio Shack and get an 12volt DC car adapter a 5 gallon bucket and your done.

The Deck hand is a dinosaur old for it's time with a deep cell marine Batt you have to charge all the time the new power boosters for cars and trucks will go better and less dangerous and can pull AC and pass to DC when or if the BATT goes low.

They want in the range of 450.00 you can do half that with my setup and it kicks butt in weight and cost. You don't need a dolly and they don't sell you the batt charger the one at walmart has a charger built in.

My own opinion way back the deckhand was state of the art now it's not.