Search results

When it comes to oil stains I've always stuck to BT100 by EatOils. I haven't tried their new BT200 yet, but heard it's pretty good. EatOils - Main JZ

Larry pretty much hit the nail on the head. Everyone has their preference on sprayers. Im not a big downstream fan, as I think it wastes a lot of product, but that's my opinion. I have a small 12V battery operated cart that holds 6 gallons of mixed chem. Water spots are usually not an issue...

I agree with the others. If you a machine with a axial pump, plan on throwing it out very soon. That thing wouldn't last me past two weeks. If your truly in a bind, check around the used market. Check your local pressure washer supply store. Sometimes they have rental units that they...

Eric, Just curous about how much one of those JWS rigs would run? I imagine a lot would depend on the setup, but just looking at a ballpark. Also, I noticed you have it setup in a Frieghtliner (which I'm not a big fan of), would you be able to setup in any rig the customer would come up, say a...

Had the same problem on my Kohler motor, that I thought was a unloader problem. Ended up being junk champion plugs. Replaced with a nice set of autolite platinums and haven't had the problem since. JZ

I think a lot of it depends on what the stain is from. For oil and grease, I always like to use BT100 from Eats Oil. All other stains on concrete I normally use a concrete cleaner like SafeRestore from EaCo chem, but probably any concrete cleaner would work. JZ

Rob, I'm not a big fan of cleaning with Chlorine except on roof's. Where are you at in the Mid Atlantic? I'm in PA and use three different places to get chemicals, being ETS in Philly, Restoration Direct in Harrisburg PA, and sometimes Penn Kleen in York, PA. JZ

Being in PA the black dots are deffenitly probably artillery fungus. Very common in the Northeast from mulch. Below is a link of some information from Penn State University on the subject. In addition, I make sure I carry a print out of the article on the second link with me, when I run into...

I agree with Daff, first impressions are key. My biggest advertisement tool has been my truck, which is lettered, and I always make sure it is kept clean. In addition if I need to get any small part, supplies, or even just gas, I will take my rig with (making sure the tanks are empty). I...

Hugh, even though you will be just putting Thompson's back on, I would still recommend prepping the surface with a good cleaner from Wolman to get rid of the UV damaged wood fibers, remove the old finish, and prepare the wood to abosrb the new coating. Check out the Wolman's Contractor's Manual...

Donna, I always used a chemical called Gutter Zap. Jason

Pete, for rust stains I always like to use saferestore by eaco chem. But as Mark stated, if you get the acid on the flashing, it will only make the rust worse.

Looking to see if someone could give me some ideas. My rig over the past couple of weeks after running for about a half hour starts to sputter, and then begins to back fire. It only happens when the my hand is off the gun, while spraying chems. As soon as I get right back on it runs fine...

I would start off with a general good cleaning chem like Eaco Chem's Glory. After a good rinse being that there is soot on the driveway which is carbon based, i would be using some form of acid. Not sure about using a bleach and tide mixture. Sounds like you are doing laundry, and not power...

I take it the mud is down in the brick, that a simple rinse won't do? I would give the guys at Deidrich a shout. They seem to have a chemical for cleaning just about anything with masonary, but I'll warn you their stuff isn't cheap but works damn good. I ran across some white efflorescence...

Hey, I always used Taginator for concrete surfaces, or Tagaway for painted surfaces sold by ETS. It's not that expensive and equipment wise all you need is a inexpensive pump sprayer. For the tagaway I just spray on, and wipe it right off. For taginator spray it on and let it sit for half and...