Landa issue

S

Sonoran

New Member
Hey folks,
This weekend I bought a used Landa all set up on a tandem axle trailer, 300 gal tank and tons of extras. It has just under 500 hours on it and had been parked for a year. The 24hp engine started fine but there's no pressure coming from the pump. All the obvious water valves are open. I took out the 6 little spring loaded valves from the pump and they all operate freely. Any ideas on what to look for next?
Thank you for any ideas!
Scott
 
Mark

Mark

Moderator / Sponsor
Make sure soap valve (upstream if equipped) is closed and not sucking air.

Try force feeding the pump, connect garden hose to pump inlet and turn on.

Here is some troubleshooting tips compliments of AR North America:

Troubleshooting


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Problem Probable Cause Solutions

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Oil Leak Between Crankcase and Pumping Section 1. Worn crankcase piston rod seals. 1. Replace crankcase piston rod seals.

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2. O-rings on plunger retainer worn. 2. Replace o-rings.

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Frequent or Premature Failure Of the Packing 1. Scored, damaged or worn plunger. 1. Replace plungers.

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2. Overpressure to inlet manifold. 2. Reduce inlet pressure.

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3. Abrasive material in the fluid being pumped. 3. Install proper filtration on pump inlet plumbing.

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4. Excessive pressure and/or temperature of fluid being pumped. 4. Check pressures and fluid inlet temperature; be sure they are within specified range.

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5. Over pressure of pumps. 5. Reduce pressure.

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6. Reduce pressure. 6. Do not run pump without water.

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Pump Runs but Produces no Flow Pump is not primed. Flood suction then restart pump.

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Pump Fails to Prime Air is trapped inside pump. Disconnect discharge hose from pump. Flood suction hose, restart pump and run pump until all air has been evacuated.

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Pump Loses Prime, Chattering Noise, Pressure Thread Fluctuates 1. Air leak in suction hose or inlet fittings. 1. Remove suction line and inspect it for a loose liner or debris lodged in hose. Avoid all unnecessary bends. Do not kink hose.

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2. Clogged suction strainer. 2. Clean strainer.

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Low Pressure at Nozzle 1. Unloader valve is bypassing. 1. Make sure unloader is adjusted properly and bypass seat is not leaking.

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2. Incorrect or worn nozzle. 2. Make sure nozzle is matched to the flow and pressure of the pump. If the nozzle is worn, replace.

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3. Restricted intake. 3. Refer to above priming information.

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Pump is Noisy Pump sucking air. Check suction manifold.

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Pressure Gauge Fluctuates 1. Valves worn or blocked by foreign bodies. 1. Clean or replace valves.

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2. Packing worn. 2. Replace packing.

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3. Pumped liquid temperature too high. 3. Reduce temperature of pumped liquid.

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Over Pressure When Gun is Closed Leaking in unloader valve and incorrect setting. Control the valve and set new pressure level.

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Pulsation Faulty pulsation damper. Check pre-charge; if low, recharge it or install a new one.

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Low Pressure 1. Worn nozzle. 1. Replace with nozzle of proper size.

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2. Belt slippage. 2. Tighten or replace with correct belt.

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3. Air leak in inlet plumbing. 3. Disassemble, reseal and reassemble.

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4. Relief valve stuck, partially plugged or improperly adjusted valve seat worn. 4. Clean and adjust relief valve; check for worn or dirty valve seats. Kit available.

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5. Inlet suction strainer clogged or improperly sized. 5. Clean. Use adequate size. Check more frequently.

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6. Worn Packing. Abrasives in pumped in cavitation. Inadequate water. 6. Install proper filter. Suction at inlet manifold must be limited to lifting less than 20 feet of water or 8.5 psi vacuum.

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7. Fouled or dirty inlet or discharge valves. 7. Clean inlet and discharge valve assemblies.

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8. Worn inlet, discharge valve blocked or dirty. 8. Replace worn valves, valve seats and/or discharge hose.

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9. Leak in the discharge line. 9. Repair leak.

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Pump Runs Extremely Rough, Pressure Very Low 1. Restricted inlet or air entering the inlet plumbing. Proper size inlet plumbing; 1. Check for air tight seal.

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2. Inlet restrictions and/or air leaks. Stuck inlet or discharge valve. Replace worn cup or cups. 2. Clean out foreign material. Replace worn valves.

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Water Leakage From Under Manifold. Slight Leakage Worn packing. Install new packing.

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Oil Leaking in the Area of Crankshaft 1. Worn crankshaft seal or improperly installed oil seal o-ring. 1. Remove oil seal retainer and replace damaged o-ring and/or seals.

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2. Bad bearing. 2. Replace bearing.

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Excessive Play in the End of the Crankshaft Pulley Worn main bearing from excessive tension on drive belt. Replace crankcase bearing and/or tension drive belt.

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Water in Crankcase 1. Humid air condensing into water inside the crankcase. 1. Change oil intervals. Use any high grade automotive 30 weight non-detergent oil.

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2. Worn packing and/or piston rod sleeve, o-rings on plunger retainer worn. Replace packing. 2. Replace o-rings.

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Oil Leaking from Underside of Crankcase Worn crankcase piston rod seals. Replace seals.

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Oil Leaking at the Rear Portion of the Crankcase Worn crankcase piston rod seals. Replace seals.

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Loud Knocking Noise in Pump 1. Pulley loose on crankshaft. 1. Check key and tighten set screw.

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2. Broken or worn bearing. 2. Replace bearing.

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AR North America - Our Goal
 
S

Sonoran

New Member
The pump had to be primed but works great now. I also found some leaks from the valves right at the hose reels and also found that I need a new unloader valve. I'm gonna take it off and tinker with it to see if maybe it's stuck. My nature, I have to try before I just start throwing $ at it :)
Scott
 
S

Sonoran

New Member
Thanks again Mark! Today i got the burner to fire up. Like I said, this was sitting for a year and it needs a little TLC to get things all up to snuff but it's getting there. I'm going to spray some PB Blaster in the unloader and let it sit for 4 or 5 days, then see if that frees it up.
 
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