12Volt? Gear Drive?

[AquaTech]

Hello!
I have been an observer of this site ad a few others for a long time. I have been reading Catalogs and magazines relating to this industry for a long time as well.

Currently I own a 13Hp Honda, Belt drive, with a TS2021 General. It's a cold water unit. By gauge, I am pushing about 3200PSI with a 4.5 Nozzle. Great machine for now. It has been doing a great job for mostly flat work.

I am planning on building my own rig, from bottom up on a 12-14" trailer. I am not going to buy a pre-made "skid". I will build my own Power unit,(Engine-Pump) and buy a Seperate Hot water heater. Plumbing will be all custom, with all the right components.

A few questions for you. All opionins are welcome.

1. 12 Volt burner: If you have a good Deep Cycle Battery or even two, with good heavy gauge wiring, and good tight connections. Then I really see very little problems. WHY are so many faces frowned on 12V burner set ups?

2. GEAR DRIVE: At one time, being an Auto Mechanic I see a good soild connection almost bullet proof from an Engine to a Pump. No belts to wear or loosen or break. No pulley Configurations. And it just keeps things Simple and straight out. Iam talking a GEAR Reduction drive running at 1450 RPM for the pump. WHY don't we see more gear drive units? Up front costs? Too new to industry?

3. Pumps: I like General, but as of lately UDOR has caught my eye. Udor seems to make their pumps a little beefier. And seem to have better Volume configurations. Anyone out there Use Udor over General?

These are a few things that I have been wondering about. Again any opinions or experiances with he above would be welcomed.

Cheers!
David

 

[Mark]

IMHO:

12 volt units have come a long way, however the 115 volt burners can handle more btu input to you coils and have a better track record for dependability. Certainly dual batteries and more important a good charging system on the engine are all plus's on a 12 volt burner.

Gear drive? I have had numerous customers bring in pressure washers with gear box problems, worn engine shafts etc $$$$$$$$$$ Gets expensive.

A belt drive pump is a little more difficult to set up, but in the long run a better way to go. Providing it is set up properly with the right belts and pulleys, belt tensioners etc.

Pumps? Udor makes a good pump, so does AR, Cat, Comet, Generaland a few others. I am partial to the AR pumps, we have a customer
with a custom hot hp washer we set up last year running a belt drive Udor 7 GPM @ 5000 PSI pump. It is a real workhorse!

Sometimes a premade or custom built washer from a manufacturer
is a better / easier way to go!

Another option would be an hydraulic driven pump, and generator powering a pump and providing power for a 115 volt burner.

The possibilities are almost endless![whatup]

 

[john orr]

In my personal experience, 12 volt are fine, as are gear-drive pumps. The biggest issue/problem, is that there are fewer dealers that have familiarity with them. If you have a dealer in your area, ask him/her about their experience. Maintaining your system is your long-term issue.

I had a 12 volt HydroTek that, fortunately, my local Landa dealer was willing to learn how it worked. I also have a 13hp Honda/AR cold water portable that I re-fitted with a Comet gear-drive pump which has not given me any problems in several years of occasional use. If I were assembling a new skid, I would probably go with a belt drive (as I have now - HydroTek 8gpm/3000psi hot) since more dealers are familiar with them and they are easier to work on yourself.

As far as pumps, with regular maintenance, they will last for many hours. Again, the issue will be ease of repair when needed, availability of parts and local knowledge. AR, General are great pumps. CAT is considered premium, but is also pricier to repair.

Any skid you buy or build will give you excellent service if you give it excellent service. My Hydrotek is still going strong (One $250 pump rebuild) after 3 years and several thousand hours. My "old" 12 volt is also still in use (sold it a few years ago).

 

[AquaTech]

Hello,

Mark and John....thank you for the input. Good vaule in opinion.

The reason for the qusetions is because when I build this unit....I want to keep it Simple. Less Clutter.

The Engine I would like is 30Hp Kohler. This engine has a 25 Amp charging system, which in turn leads to ..no belt...one less large part to break down. 25 amp is good....along with a good Deep cycle battery...and possibly even a Capacitor, you have a solid electrical system. Although you stated the 12V coil does not get as hot?

I see both opinions are to go with Belt drive. This is something I need to look into more. I suppose since i am a maintenance freak, belt drive would always be kept in check. I have worked on Lawmowers to Cars and Trucks all my life. I have seen Belts do some nasty things when they break. I look into the belt system as having too much "Sideload" on the Engine and the Pump. Then as well , I would have to Add a generator to that belt system. I like to look of the Gear Drive, just seems more solid and reliable. How was it possible to have that one unit come in with Shaft wear?

I HAVE looked into AR, Comet, and CAT. The CAT seems to be the best of the three, but I have seen...at least on paper...the Udor and General....beat them in Flow, and ease of re-build...as well as getting parts.

I sure do appreciate input good or bad...this is how we can learn from each other.


Cheers,
David

 

[Mark]

Here is an awesome ready to go rig powered by a 29 HP Vanguard, General pump, and a 115 volt wayne burner, rated 8.7 GPM @ 3500 PSI!

It is ready to go to work, and you can spend your time selling cleaning jobs.

Just a thought.

 

[AquaTech]

Thanks Mark! Nice looking Rig!! Keeping my options open.

Cheers,
David

 

[Torque454]

The 12 volt setup is a great setup EXCEPT the transformer. It is not as reliable or as powerfull as a 115v unit. Currently my own personal machine has a 115v burner on it. Motor and transformer. BUT the guy i help out has a 12v burner with a 115v transformer. He uses a 400 watt power inverter connected to the 12v battery that is used for the burner and to start the engine. Then he cut the end off of one of those short brown extension cords and spliced it on the wires of the transformer. The power inverter runs the transformer and the rest is 12v. This has proven very reliable and all you have to do is remember to turn the power inverter on when you turn on the burner. Otherwise the blower runs and pumps fuel but there is no spark to light the fuel. When you realize your mistake, and turn the inverter on. It blows smoke like a tractor at a tractor pull. Massive smoke. I am going to do the same thing on my unit after I convert to a higher HP electric start engine.

Right now i am running a 13hp manual start honda with a 4000psi 4gpm DIRECT DRIVE AR pump (best brand of pump on the market, but thats just my opinion. Ive been around hawks, generals, and cats and the AR's were cheaper and lasted the longest. Theyre getting more expensive tho!) The belt drives are supposed to be the best and longest lasting because they turn slower and dont get the vibration transmission that direct or gear driven units are exposed to from the engine. If all goes as planned i will be running around a 30hp diesel engine (and one big fuel tank for engine and heater) and a 4000psi 7 or 8gpm AR belt driven pump. I will keep a generator on board to run lights, air compressor, shop vac, etc if ever needed.

I know this reply is late but hopefully it helps you, or someone down the road.