How do I remove mold and mildew from White Cedar shingles? What Chemicals work best?

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trent5000

New Member
Hi,

I have just started my own business, and I am trying to learn the ropes! I would like to use something other than just bleach and water to kill the mold. It is killing the mold, but it is also changing the color of the shingle... it's turning a powery white color. It looks great, but I don't want to damage the shingles, or remove any of the essential wood. I have a hydrotek, 3200psi, 13 hp, 4 gallon a min. machine. The injector is after the pump. The bleach is being diluted with the water through the wand.

Please let me know if you have had any experience with cedar shingles. I live in the New England area, and the ocean takes a toll on the houses around here.

Thanks in advance!
-Trent
 
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Tim Mcculla

New Member
I would use a Sodiom Hydroxide (NOAH) based cleaner. We use the New Again line. Follow up with a oxylic acid rinse to nutralize the NOAH and brighten the wood.

Sorry Moderator, if I was not supposed to mention the brand name of the cleaner we use.

Timmcculla@msn.com
 
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trent5000

New Member
Hi,thanks again for the replies on chemicals for cedar shingles.What is the dilution or ratio??when they say 5 to 1,does it mean oz,cups,or gallons ??thanks Trent
 
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ron

New Member
5 to 1 or any ratio is what it is.
in other word's ratio's are %
so if you are doing liquid's it's 5 oz,pint's,qurt's,gal's,ect to the same measurement of liquid chem.
powder's must be weighed and liquid added to make a concentrate. You then can use the same formula as above.
in your case 5 gal of water to 1 gal of concentrate.
this is just a guide and your method of aplication will change the ratio's.
not all downstreamer's,upstreamer's or x-jet's are the same.
the only way to get a 100% correct applied ratio is to apply it mixed then strait from the container to the surface.
good luck
 
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trent5000

New Member
Hi,
I'm trying to understand putting the chemicals on the house with pump sprayers vs chemical injectors on the machine.I understand the pump sprayers my question is with my hydrotek 3200 psi 4gpm with downstream injector are all chemicals good to use being diluted with so much water.It is my understanding that most of the pumps come stock ready 25:1 that seems to be a lot of water mixing and diluting the chemical before it reaches the house??I think the sodium hydroxide and oxylic acid is a great idea to try but won't it work best put on with a pump sprayer and rinsed off with warm water and or minimal pressure?? please keep in mind Im dealing mostly with white and red cedar shingled siding.what chemicals work good with the downstream injector and what is the easiest way to figure out the ratio for them??example bleach,tsp,and water in a 5 gallon bucket.hope tou can help. thank you.
 
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cassidy36

Guest
Power washing Cedar shingles

Hi everyone,
I believe my house has red cedar shingles, most of the shingles are gray now with a little mildew in some spots, though the house might have been stained gray.

I plan to use a garden pump to spay the shingles with a solution, from the postings it seems a Sodiom Hydroxide (NOAH) based cleaner works best, does anyone know of a location where we are to purchase such products in the Norwalk CT area?

I also plan to either use a garden hose or a power washer to spay off the solution (plan to spay the soil, bushes and cover the bushes before I start), which would you recommend?

After spaying off the solution would the shingles turn a dark tan or a lighter color? I've read if one uses bleach the shingles would turn a light tan color, like houses you see near the beach, which would be fine with me, is this correct, would it last or would I have to stain the shingles?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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CaroliProWash

New Member
It is most definitely important to know if there is a stain or if they have naturally grayed. Unstained wood doesn't need to be treated with nearly as strong a chemical as a previously stained wood.

Sodium hydroxide is a nasty caustic chemical - if you are not a pro or experienced in this type of wood restoration, you should probably not start practicing on this type project.

You might also want to check out www.wrcla.org (the western red cedar folk) and/or the Cedar Shake & Shingle bureau (can't recall the url). You will gain some invaluable information about the wood itself from either place.

Celeste
 
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