How do you guys mix

ParadiseProWash

New Member
Just read some post from you guys about you not buying Wolmans cleaners and strippers or any other brand that you use bleach. Ok how do you mix the bleach or I should say at what ration do you put it on straight or mixed. When rinsing do you guys get that white look on the deck and if so does the brightner fix that problem. Thanks for any help you guys can give me I have done decks but I used strippers and so forth heck bleach would be a lot cheaper. Does the bleach strip sealers of just get the gray look out.

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I love this business
 

johny

New Member
I am not an expert on wood,but i know bleach dont strip,it just cleans.I dont worry about the ratio,just what ever i feel like,experiment.This past weekend i cleaned a fence,1 gal bleach,few cups of laundry detergent,1 gal water,worked great for me,i let it dwell just 1 min,thats it.Not sure about the white look,usually i put oxalic acid on afterwards 1pound in 1 gal of water.Sealers usually cover up the white look.You should also search the board ,there are many recepies with bleach
Hope this helps,
Johny

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Mike Hughes

New Member
Like was said above, bleach will never strip a failing finish........but it can be used on a deck that is just plain dirty, and/or has mold/mildew. Always brighten afterwards.



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Mike Hughes
Everclear
Souderton, PA
 

Stateline P/W

New Member
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ParidiseProWash, here is what was posted a while back on the mixture of bleach. http://www.powerwash.net/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000007.html I don't use bleach, but you need to use what works for you. Bleach will not strip sealers.

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Steve

Stateline Pressure Washing [boldred]
 

Power Clean

New Member
Be sure to neutralize. I just looked at a job saturday where the homeowner used bleach and water. He said he scrubbed with a brush too!!! After he cleaned(???) the deck, he sealed that baby with clear "Thompsons". That was last year. This will definitely be a before an after shot. It's WAS a beautiful multiple decking system attached to a $600,000 home. What a shame for him. I plan to make it beautiful for him again and gain a vaulable reference.

neutralize!

Later, Roy

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Power Clean of America, LLC
www.powercleanofamerica.com
 

ParadiseProWash

New Member
Thanks I sent in for the Wolman Certified Contractor Program and plan to use Wolmans or Culprinol from Sherwin Williams but was just wandering about bleach because I new that it would not strip What do most of you buy for a neutrilizer. Thanks again

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I love this business
 

Stateline P/W

New Member
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You could call Sunbrite and get a 5gal of brightener. It works really well for about $30. You could call your chemical supplier and get a price on oxalic and citric acid. I use oxalic, never tried citric. </FONT c>

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Steve

Stateline Pressure Washing
 

Jon Fife

New Member
hey paradise,

for a brightener i buy a 50 pound bag of citric and a 50 pound bag of oxalic and mix them together. i have been using one cup of acid mix per one gallon of water. the acid can be purchased from most places that sell chemicals. get the memphis yellow pages and look up 'chemicals', anybody will sell it. the two 50 lb bags cost me about 80 dollars, but will probably last a few years. have any other questions, give me a call.

jon fife
nashville, TN
(615)837-3663

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ParadiseProWash

New Member
Thanks for all that responded. I did a deck today and used Wolmans for the first time I must say it turned out simply beautiful. I also did a wood barn I will take pics soon.

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I love this business

Paradise Pro Wash
Morgan Paradise
Eads, TN 38028
MorganParadise@msn.com
 

Cam

New Member
We've tried various other cheaper brighteners that
also contained oxalic acid but must say that Wolman's
truly is the best we have found as it is more gel-
like and thus clings to the vertical surfaces better
than the others. You tend to get streaking with the
others as they are more liquid in consistancy. I think
there are as good if not better sealers out there than
what Wolman has, but nothing so far has beaten their
brightener! Appreciate everybody's input for us rookies!

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reedsterstl

New Member
ditto on the Wolman

I have tried several different brighteners. But I must say the wolman's performance can't be beat. 10 to 15 minutes of dwell time and rinse, rinse and rinse. The outcome is the same, beautiful. We are having runs on the wolman's here in St. Peters, stocked up with six gallons of it yesterday. On grey fences nothing I have found works better. The only problems I am having are the fuzzies after stripping spindles and rails. Even using low, low down stream type pressure. I am staying with the wolmans until I can find my own supplier of oxalic crystals.

reedster
 

Jim Bilyeu

New Member
Jon,

Read your post about mixing oxalic acid and citric acid together and using one pound per gallon of water.

Both of these products will do the same thing, why are you mixing them? Oxalic is a stronger acid therefore it will react quicker than citric. This is the main reason that we use it. We are able to see the reaction quicker so we don't use as much product. We tried using citric but found that we were using four times more product because we could not tell where we applied at and just keep going over the same areas. Oxalic, you spray, you see, you keep going. Although citric is slower reaction, it is safer to use.

As for your mixture. One pound per gallon of water is way to much. The molecules of water will only absorb so much acid. Once the molecules are saturated, they will not accept any more. You must be getting a lot of undissolved crystals in the bottom of the pail. If your not, then you are spraying these crystals directly onto the wood substrate. If your sucking up these undissolved crystals, you are probably having problems with your sprayer clogging up to. In short, you should be able to get the same results by adding one and one have pounds of oxalic to five gallons of water. If you have hot water, the crystals will dissolve better.

Someone asked if you could put to much oxalic/citric on a wood substrate, yes you can. In most cases, it would just mean a lot of rinsing to remove it. In some cases if you don't get it all off, it will re-appear in a white powerish form on top of your finish. It can also cause a chemical reaction with your finish and cause premature failure. There is another condition that can occur if you apply to much but it is to complex to go into at this time.

I have seen a lot of you are having troubles with the fuzzies. Wood is going to fuzz up to some degree when you pressure wash. Just how much will depend on several factors. One being on how much exposure the substrate gets and how it's been protected. Keep in mind that although the finish may look good, it does not mean that it is protecting the wood. Fences and railing get the most exposure therefore tend to fuzz up more. Another factor that causes the fuzzies as you call it, is the use of bleach in prior cleaning. I know that a lot of you use bleach and I don't want to get into a debate over it. Bosie Cascade is the largest user of bleach in the world. They use it to break down the wood fibers in their wood pulp plants. Wood fibers = fuzzies.

As you can see, sometimes I just don't know when to shut up. Talk to you all later.

Jim Bilyeu
Exterior Woodcare
 

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