Mill Glaze Remover

[Deck Works]

Can anyone recommend a MIll Glaze Remover for me - something easy to find at Home Depot, Menards, or Lowes.

Thanks!

 

[CaroliProWash]

An oxalic acid product will do it. Apply oxalic, rinse, rinse, rinse. Wood will brighten and be ready for stain application. You'll have a better result if you get a professional grade product......the Harry Homeowner stuff will not be as strong.

 

[Deck Works]

I have used the Wolmans Deck Brightner in the past on new decks...would that do the trick?

 

[CaroliProWash]

Yep - I would check the MSDS on it and see what the actual content is of the oxalic. We've used the Flood product in a pinch. There is a real distinct possibility that you could order from a company that specializes in products for decks that will have a higher content of the oxalic acid, thus allowing you to use less product, produce better results and making you extra money (which is what it's about, right?) We prefer Steve Rowlett's DeckBrite, however, Pressure Tek has a good oxalic product as does ESI (through Sunbrite supply).

Now if you're environmentally conscious, citric acid will give the same results only in a longer period of time.....oxalic = about 2 minutes results, citric = about 5-7 minutes results.

Oxalic acid can cause sterilization if proper PPE is not used - if you still want kids, maybe citric acid is the way to go.

Feel free to give me a call,

Celeste

 

[Deck Works]

LOL! The wifes 5 mos pregnant so I think I've avoided that in the past.

Thanks for the heads up and info!

John

 

[Aplus]

Now if you're environmentally conscious, citric acid will give the same results only in a longer period of time.....oxalic = about 2 minutes results, citric = about 5-7 minutes results.

Not exactly accurate. Oxalic works in mere seconds, almost instantaneous, while citric takes maybe 30 seconds.

If it takes longer than the mix is probably not strong enough.

I used to call the oxalic application the "Kodak Moment" because the brightening is so fast and radical the homeowners who were watching would ooh & ah when viewing it.

 

[CaroliProWash]

ACK! The Pessimist side of me is busted!

 

[5 Star Johnny]

Oxalic & Glacial acidics are our choice for preparing "new wood" structures for initial sealing. However, it should not be assumed that you are necessarily removing all the mill glaze, or preparing the new wood to a stage that it will accept the same amount of sealant that a "seasoned" wood structure will. The acidics will open up the wood to a degree and remove much of the mill glaze, but the cellular structure of the "new wood" is likely still "tight" and will not effectively take most sealants. A penetrating preservative is your best choice.

We use all ABR (American Building Restoration Products) for our restoration & preservation. X-180 Weathered Wood Restorer for the prep. X-100 Pre-Finish for the first season of the structure. Then reclean with X-180 the following season and reapply X-100 pre-finish and second coat with X-100 deck finish.

Works for us! Hope we helped!

 

[Aplus]

Regarding Mill Glaze, are we talking about Cedar?

Cedar is usually the worst for mill glaze. A nice bath of a quality percarbonate cleaner, followed by a thorough low-pressure wash, and finally an acid bath, is the best course of action.

However, as Johnny mentioned, the tight surface wood grain still will not accept stain deeply, and you can expect to have to re-treat the wood the following season.