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QUICK! How to remove algae from boat underbody
- Thread starter zing
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American Exteriors
New Member
The boat I currently own was once used full time at a lake here in Michigan - meaning it sat in the water all season then stored in the winters. It was completely covered with thick "algae" on the bottom of the fiberglass hull. It also turned very hard - more like barnacles than algae and I believe was caused by zebra mussels living in the lake.
I tried everything to get this crud off, but nothing short of sanding and chiseling had any effect!
Finally, I stopped in to my local West Marine store where I found a chemical cleaner just for this. I am not sure if I still have any left, but I believe it was muriatic acid based and was VERY strong. After spraying it on my boat, it dripped down into the driveway and started to etch the concrete - just like muriatic at full strength. I quickly hosed down the drive so there was no damage aside from the "clean" white spots it left on the concrete. But one should certainly think about where you are going to do the cleaning to avoid any problems.
Another thing is that I bought the 16oz spray bottle for about $10, but I would now just purchase the muriatic acid straight as it should work exactly the same - about $3 per gallon.
DEFINITELY take precautions using this acid! Gloves, goggles, long clothing etc.. Avoid any overspray and cover the ground if you don't want it to be effected.
Oh yeah, one more thing, I would be extremely careful if you plan on using this acid on an aluminum hull - it attacks aluminum fiercely while it doesn't seem to bother the fiberglass hulls at all.
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I tried everything to get this crud off, but nothing short of sanding and chiseling had any effect!
Finally, I stopped in to my local West Marine store where I found a chemical cleaner just for this. I am not sure if I still have any left, but I believe it was muriatic acid based and was VERY strong. After spraying it on my boat, it dripped down into the driveway and started to etch the concrete - just like muriatic at full strength. I quickly hosed down the drive so there was no damage aside from the "clean" white spots it left on the concrete. But one should certainly think about where you are going to do the cleaning to avoid any problems.
Another thing is that I bought the 16oz spray bottle for about $10, but I would now just purchase the muriatic acid straight as it should work exactly the same - about $3 per gallon.
DEFINITELY take precautions using this acid! Gloves, goggles, long clothing etc.. Avoid any overspray and cover the ground if you don't want it to be effected.
Oh yeah, one more thing, I would be extremely careful if you plan on using this acid on an aluminum hull - it attacks aluminum fiercely while it doesn't seem to bother the fiberglass hulls at all.
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Larry L.
PWN TEAM - Moderator Emeritus
<FONT face="Comic Sans MS"><FONT COLOR="DarkGreen">Zing its hard to remove even with acid if its every bad.
Acid is the only thing I found to remove it but I don't like useing acid on gel-coat.When I pull my boat out of the water I wipe it off now b/c when it dries its a buger to get off.I seen a post on Mobile detailing as how to get it off but cann't remeber what was said,check their bbs.</FONT c></FONT f>
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When answering Post If It Sounds As tho I'm Holding A Match To Ya "Fear Not" Its Only Lit On One End.I'm No Doctor The Pill I Subscride Is For Me Only.They May Make You Jump Up and Down Or Crawl All Over The Ground.Will Try To Help Sail Your Ship Even Tho Rocket Fuel Is The Tip.
When In Doubt,,,Think It Out.....triplel@bscn.com
Acid is the only thing I found to remove it but I don't like useing acid on gel-coat.When I pull my boat out of the water I wipe it off now b/c when it dries its a buger to get off.I seen a post on Mobile detailing as how to get it off but cann't remeber what was said,check their bbs.</FONT c></FONT f>
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When answering Post If It Sounds As tho I'm Holding A Match To Ya "Fear Not" Its Only Lit On One End.I'm No Doctor The Pill I Subscride Is For Me Only.They May Make You Jump Up and Down Or Crawl All Over The Ground.Will Try To Help Sail Your Ship Even Tho Rocket Fuel Is The Tip.
When In Doubt,,,Think It Out.....triplel@bscn.com
David Saulque
<b>PWN TEAM - Hood Moderator</b><br<b><font color=
I would look in your local phone book and find a company that has a Soda Blaster. I have one of these unit and we can remove that bildup in two hours depending on the size of the boat-works great. The units are not cheap-10-30 grand. My unit and the compressor is around 20. Boy does it work.
David
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David
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Tunatussle
New Member
What do you mean by the underbody? The hull should be
p/w when the boat is removed from the water. Is it in
salt or fresh water and for how long? Most boaters are
smart enough to apply good (Petite Brand) bottom paint
before they dunk the boat. This would stop quite a lot of algae attaching to the hull and make it easier to clean it as well. I clean my hull every Jan when I pull the boat with 2500 psi and then in April before I launch it I paint the water line, I only repaint the bottom every other year. I have been able to get two years use out of each coating with Petite Tropical Trinidad bottom paint. By the way if the hull is
wood I would not touch it.
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p/w when the boat is removed from the water. Is it in
salt or fresh water and for how long? Most boaters are
smart enough to apply good (Petite Brand) bottom paint
before they dunk the boat. This would stop quite a lot of algae attaching to the hull and make it easier to clean it as well. I clean my hull every Jan when I pull the boat with 2500 psi and then in April before I launch it I paint the water line, I only repaint the bottom every other year. I have been able to get two years use out of each coating with Petite Tropical Trinidad bottom paint. By the way if the hull is
wood I would not touch it.
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