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removing mortar smears (sandfaced brick)
- Thread starter timhays
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Tim, I have cleaned this type of brick more times than I would like.
Really depends on the exact brick, type (dyed?) mortar and cleanliness. Try to clean off as much as you can via scraping, etc. If a deep colored brick, use as high a concentration of masonary detergent as you feel comfortable with to remove the smears. Key is to use chemical to remove the smears, not PWing. Depending on the situation, I use 800 - 1600 psi to pressure wash after the chemical/rinse cycle. If you are inexperienced in brick cleaning, I would not clean a soft faced brick as a learning experience.
Really depends on the exact brick, type (dyed?) mortar and cleanliness. Try to clean off as much as you can via scraping, etc. If a deep colored brick, use as high a concentration of masonary detergent as you feel comfortable with to remove the smears. Key is to use chemical to remove the smears, not PWing. Depending on the situation, I use 800 - 1600 psi to pressure wash after the chemical/rinse cycle. If you are inexperienced in brick cleaning, I would not clean a soft faced brick as a learning experience.
Walt Graner
New Member
Contact several of the brick providers in your area and talk to some of their sales folks. They will point you in the right direction
If this is your first time cleaning brick you need to pass on this one, liability is too high/costly for a mistake. Before you do a customer’s job you need to practice in alleys or buildings, which are scheduled to be demolished.
If this is your first time cleaning brick you need to pass on this one, liability is too high/costly for a mistake. Before you do a customer’s job you need to practice in alleys or buildings, which are scheduled to be demolished.
thanks for the advice,50% of the pressure washing i have done in the past 2 years has been acid washing brick,this is the first time i have run across a sandfaced brick that had mortar all over it. when i wash regular brick i use straight muriatic acid and turbo nozzle to clean.on sandfaced i just use water and 25 degree tip.
just wanted to get advice before i sprayed acid on the sandfaced brick.
just wanted to get advice before i sprayed acid on the sandfaced brick.
most of the brick i have washed (one builder 116 townhomes) uses
a dark tumbled brick so it allready looks like you took a turbo nozzle to it.they also use the cheapest labor they can find to lay the brick,so it is a pretty bad job.
the only way i can do it for what they pay and make money is to use the turbo nozzle.
now that i am picking up other builders i am migrating away from the turbo nozzle,the other builders houses are gravy compared to what i am used to.
could you explain to me about the types of mortar not to use acid on?
a dark tumbled brick so it allready looks like you took a turbo nozzle to it.they also use the cheapest labor they can find to lay the brick,so it is a pretty bad job.
the only way i can do it for what they pay and make money is to use the turbo nozzle.
now that i am picking up other builders i am migrating away from the turbo nozzle,the other builders houses are gravy compared to what i am used to.
could you explain to me about the types of mortar not to use acid on?
Regarding mortar type, I was referring to colorants and dyes. Best example is chocolate mortar. If you apply too high a concentration, or for too long, you will pull the dye out, causing a big problem. Dyes used in mortar are acid soluble. Besides the dark mortars, also be aware of buff mortar - it appears to be almost gray, but you will learn quickly that you can also destroy the color and look of the job if not careful.
Obviously a straight gray mortar is not much of a problem.
The other major mortar issue is N type vs. S type, the latter being a fast cure and therefore much more difficult to remove. You'll see it more often in the winter. B2
Obviously a straight gray mortar is not much of a problem.
The other major mortar issue is N type vs. S type, the latter being a fast cure and therefore much more difficult to remove. You'll see it more often in the winter. B2
what do you use to clean the brick when the mortar prevents you from using muriatic acid?
the last month or so i have noticed that the mortar is harder to remove almost like they mixed it with a bonding aggregate.
i thought it was my imagination. i guess it isnt.
thanks for all your help.
gotta go out of town to work this weekend se ya.
the last month or so i have noticed that the mortar is harder to remove almost like they mixed it with a bonding aggregate.
i thought it was my imagination. i guess it isnt.
thanks for all your help.
gotta go out of town to work this weekend se ya.
Tim, check out products from Prosoco, which manufacturers Sure Klean and other more buffered products. Claim is that thesse are better to use on colored mortar. On clean jobs with dark mortar I try to clean first without an acid detergent, or use a very dilute muratic acid solution.