Rookie - Assistance on approach

acsipresident

New Member
[hello] First, allow me to say how impressed I am with the knowledge and generosity of those who contribute to this forum. Coming from the corporate America climate I wish people were as forthcoming as all of you.

As of today I am formulating my strategy and approach to a new business that includes deck restoration. Being a general handyman, I’ve accumulated most of the tools I see discussed here. During the past several years I’ve contributed a good amount of my time cleaning and sealing decks for family, relatives and friends all of which have been relatively small. As an exercise to create a foundation in approach I will be stripping, brightening and sealing my own deck. I feel this is a good launching point because of it’s size and complexity (complex to me anyway). The deck is 54’x15’ with octagon shaped sitting pods on each end. Additionally, in the middle of the 54’ span is a trellis (12x14x9’tall) which is built with 6x6 lumbers as the 4 main supports.

Here is my question. With what I’ve read, there is approximately a 15 minute dwell time between applying a stripper (or cleaner) and it’s removal. With a structure this large how can you achieve this? Since you don’t want the deck wet when applying these solvents, where do you start (trellis, rails, floor) and how do you move through the rinsing process without allowing the stripper to dry? The trellis alone will take me a good amount of time since I’d have to stand on top to treat the PT wood.

Hopefully I will stumble through this enough to log a great list of tools, procedures, techniques and timing. I am truly looking forward to your input.
 

CaroliProWash

New Member
We approach large projects by sections. This alleviates overdwelling on areas. Strippers cause surfaces to become slippery, so keep this in mind while working "off the ground".

Do you have some photos and have you looked into the products you will be using? We are partial to Extreme Solutions products - HD80 for stripping, Citralic for neutralizing & brightening and Wood Tux Wet for staining.

Celeste
 

acsipresident

New Member
I have decided to go with the products from Extreme, at least for the stripping and cleaning for now. I have attached a picture of the deck (if I did it right). Again, appreciate the feedback!
 

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CaroliProWash

New Member
Ooooooh, that's pretty! That will give you beautiful portfolio pics! What type of equipment do you have? These products can be applied with a pump up sprayer - I'm speaking of your machine.....psi & gpm? Wood requires very low psi......with these chems you should be fine not exceeding 500-700psi. What type of sealer is on the deck now?

Celeste
 

acsipresident

New Member
Thank you for the compliment. I had fun designing it but not as much building. I do plan to put the before/after in my portfolio along with pictures of a shed I'm doing.

As for equipment, I have a pressure washer that pushes 3.5gpm, max pressure of 2500 with a host of tips. I have noticed that a minimum of 4gpm is what is recommended. Am I safe to assume I can get by on this for a bit? Also, along with the commercial grade pump up tanks, I also have a Wagner 945 (.45 gpm) paint strayer. BEHR Deckplus semi-transparent is on it now, at least what is left of it. The deck picture was taken some time ago and is now pretty grey. I think it's been 4+ years since it was sealed. At that time I used a deck brush to apply the stain.

Paul
 

CaroliProWash

New Member
The HD80 should handle that Behr stain with no problem - you can check with the manufacturer on what your mix ratios should be. Test spots are always very effective as well.

Your pressure washer will do you fine, you'll simply be rinsing longer than if it delivered a higher gpm.

Your paint sprayer may not work well depending on the stain you're applying but it would probablyl be worth a try :) Don't put that Behr stuff back on! There are plenty of much better quality stains out there. Most woodies wouldn't put Behr or Thompsons on their dog houses!

Wood Tux is my preference for stains, but there are quite a few guys that have very good results with Ready Seal and Wood Defender type stains.

Celeste
 

acsipresident

New Member
Regarding your suggestion about "sections", can you expand on this a bit? Is this something you do down the board line, as in the length of the deck (in my cases) which means you mask the other portions to keep them dry?
 

CaroliProWash

New Member
Nothing as complicated as all that.......We would start at one end, strip the steps, rails, floor, benches and maybe the arbor, let dwell time begin. About halfway through that dwell time, we'd be applying stripper to the next section so it could be dwelling while we rinsed section 1. Apply to stripper to section 3, rinse section 2 and so forth. There's no such animal as keeping places dry - way too much water going on for all that. Having surfaces wet only means that your product will be diluted slightly....really not that big of a deal. Sometimes when the deck surfaces are really hot, we'll prewet the deck just to cool it down. My suggestion on sections was you just don't want to do so large of a section that the product dries before you can rinse it. Also, depending on the results of your test spot, your dwell times can be as long as 30 minutes. If this is the case and it's hot out, you may have to keep wetting the area with product or a little water so it doesn't dry. We would also complete the stripping process before applying any brightener/neutralizer - we do that at one time then rinse well.

Celeste
 

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