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Rust Removal
- Thread starter chirobob
- Start date
Ok,
Mark first. We are not due to EPA regulations allowed to discharge down the stormwater drain, so what we did in this case was pull up the lid on the pit, block off the outlet and place 3" vacuum hose. When finished we jet out the pit, vacuum, unblock outlet. The other pits were sand bagged off. The gully sucker holds 2500 gallons, in this job we recovered 800 gallons of wash waters. We then took them to a liquid waste treatment plant at a cost of 48c US a gallon. I think they charge the client 72c Gallon + labour. I am trying to rigg the Steel Eagle up directly to this tanker with lighter 2" vacuum hose and a 2" ball valve on the deck. Steel Eagle say I can't do it - 'But where theres a will there's a way'. I've already attached spray suppresser skirting, so if I replace this with a more rigid rubber seal I should be on the money.
Mark first. We are not due to EPA regulations allowed to discharge down the stormwater drain, so what we did in this case was pull up the lid on the pit, block off the outlet and place 3" vacuum hose. When finished we jet out the pit, vacuum, unblock outlet. The other pits were sand bagged off. The gully sucker holds 2500 gallons, in this job we recovered 800 gallons of wash waters. We then took them to a liquid waste treatment plant at a cost of 48c US a gallon. I think they charge the client 72c Gallon + labour. I am trying to rigg the Steel Eagle up directly to this tanker with lighter 2" vacuum hose and a 2" ball valve on the deck. Steel Eagle say I can't do it - 'But where theres a will there's a way'. I've already attached spray suppresser skirting, so if I replace this with a more rigid rubber seal I should be on the money.
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Now to Dan,
I used a Shurflo 1.8 GPM @ 60 psi rig set up with open gun and a stainless 3/8 ball valve, I had to go to this set up as I was replacing the bearings in the gun daily, the gun is QC to the lances which are from 3, 6, 10 and 14 foot long. The only issue I have with the Shurflos' is that the HCL attacks one of the plastic components in the check valve and causes it to fracture. All in all they have been a blessing in disguise and have saved me a bunch of time. However, I have gone through 7 of them in the past 8 months and yes I flush them thoroughly daily and between jobs. Not cheap over here at $160 US per unit........ but cheaper than my time.
With regard to the road they had a budget to spend of $7 k - $3.5k for line marking and $3.5k for rust removal. Although, I have a feeling I will be back there soon as the site manager couldn't believe his eyes.
Regards
Jason
I used a Shurflo 1.8 GPM @ 60 psi rig set up with open gun and a stainless 3/8 ball valve, I had to go to this set up as I was replacing the bearings in the gun daily, the gun is QC to the lances which are from 3, 6, 10 and 14 foot long. The only issue I have with the Shurflos' is that the HCL attacks one of the plastic components in the check valve and causes it to fracture. All in all they have been a blessing in disguise and have saved me a bunch of time. However, I have gone through 7 of them in the past 8 months and yes I flush them thoroughly daily and between jobs. Not cheap over here at $160 US per unit........ but cheaper than my time.
With regard to the road they had a budget to spend of $7 k - $3.5k for line marking and $3.5k for rust removal. Although, I have a feeling I will be back there soon as the site manager couldn't believe his eyes.
Regards
Jason
cmobilepower
New Member
Chirobob,
Nice job! Could you elaborate on the acid foamer/surfacant?
Mike Cassidy
www.PowerWashNow.com
Mobile Power Wash of New England
P.O. Box 1511
Plainville, Ma., 02762-1511
Nice job! Could you elaborate on the acid foamer/surfacant?
Mike Cassidy
www.PowerWashNow.com
Mobile Power Wash of New England
P.O. Box 1511
Plainville, Ma., 02762-1511
Thanks Mike,
the foamer is to enable the acid a greater contact time to convert the rust to iron di-phosphide. If you don't do this the acid is less effective and therefore you use more chemical to treat the surface. I don't think it is as important on a horizontal surface as it is for a vertical surface, such as in brickcleaning in this it does make a huge difference.
The HCL surfactant is Teric PE62 this will also be suitable for Phosphoric acid. I'm going to try an Octyl Phenol surfactant for HF in two stepping as the PE62 will not work in this application. By the way nice site I looked at it earlier in the week, what do you guys use to clean the old brick?
Regards,
Jason
the foamer is to enable the acid a greater contact time to convert the rust to iron di-phosphide. If you don't do this the acid is less effective and therefore you use more chemical to treat the surface. I don't think it is as important on a horizontal surface as it is for a vertical surface, such as in brickcleaning in this it does make a huge difference.
The HCL surfactant is Teric PE62 this will also be suitable for Phosphoric acid. I'm going to try an Octyl Phenol surfactant for HF in two stepping as the PE62 will not work in this application. By the way nice site I looked at it earlier in the week, what do you guys use to clean the old brick?
Regards,
Jason
I use to use the shurflo a lot and found that they freeze up a lot. I was going through them left and right. I save them after they stopped.
One day I needed one really bad and took it apart. Just the black top part. I tapped it a few times with a screw driver and messed around with the little piston in there.
Then it started working again. So that what I did with them all and most started working again. I really didn't do anything special. I just took them a part and messed with them.
I also ran a few long wires to my truck battery so I don't have to keep charging a battery. I used a 100 or more feet of tubing and a ball valve.
One day I needed one really bad and took it apart. Just the black top part. I tapped it a few times with a screw driver and messed around with the little piston in there.
Then it started working again. So that what I did with them all and most started working again. I really didn't do anything special. I just took them a part and messed with them.
I also ran a few long wires to my truck battery so I don't have to keep charging a battery. I used a 100 or more feet of tubing and a ball valve.
cmobilepower
New Member
Chirobob,
Thanks for the reply on the surfacant. Is teric pe62 a brand name and is it or a similar product available in the U.S. ? Do you know the active ingrediants? We do a lot of rust coversion and use phosphoric. It would be nice to have a little more cling on the vertical surfaces.
Old brick cleaning is a case by case deal on which cleaners we use. Diedrich & Prosoco brands mostly. Most of them have hydroflouric acid as one of the main ingrediants. We do tests with about 6-8 products to see what works best and decide from there. Thanks for the kind words on the website
Mike Cassidy
www.PowerWashNow.com
Mobile Power Wash of New England
P.O. Box 1511
Plainville, Ma., 02762-1511
Thanks for the reply on the surfacant. Is teric pe62 a brand name and is it or a similar product available in the U.S. ? Do you know the active ingrediants? We do a lot of rust coversion and use phosphoric. It would be nice to have a little more cling on the vertical surfaces.
Old brick cleaning is a case by case deal on which cleaners we use. Diedrich & Prosoco brands mostly. Most of them have hydroflouric acid as one of the main ingrediants. We do tests with about 6-8 products to see what works best and decide from there. Thanks for the kind words on the website
Mike Cassidy
www.PowerWashNow.com
Mobile Power Wash of New England
P.O. Box 1511
Plainville, Ma., 02762-1511
Dan,
I haven't had one freeze up yet, mainly I have a problem in getting it to prime after a while when your all suited up and it's 100 degrees + this really getts on your goat. I have a foot valve on the inlet and usually give it a jiggle action to get it going. I have since learned from a different rep at the same company that if you get debris under the valves this will effect the priming, and I did notice some sediment in there when I've pulled them apart. On some larger sites I might have 15 x 5 gallon drums of diluted HCL spread 30 foot apart to spray the whole block at once, dragging the cart through ankle deep mud and clay I can under stand why the valves get stuck.
I haven't had one freeze up yet, mainly I have a problem in getting it to prime after a while when your all suited up and it's 100 degrees + this really getts on your goat. I have a foot valve on the inlet and usually give it a jiggle action to get it going. I have since learned from a different rep at the same company that if you get debris under the valves this will effect the priming, and I did notice some sediment in there when I've pulled them apart. On some larger sites I might have 15 x 5 gallon drums of diluted HCL spread 30 foot apart to spray the whole block at once, dragging the cart through ankle deep mud and clay I can under stand why the valves get stuck.
Mike,
if it was me I would try and source the Octyl phenol Ethyloxylates surfactant as and all round acid solution. The type to source is Triton X 100(Dow Chemical/Union Carbide), or Tigerfax 10(Tiger Chemical Company) as long as it has around 10 moles of Ethyloxylate it will do the trick. I would try some local chemical suppliers or do an internet search to source it locally.
You buy it by the Kg or pound in your case, the market value should be approximately $1.30- $1.40 per pound if you can try and source a supplier that will supply it to you in 40lb lots.
It comes as a fatty solid to which you reduce down to 30% concentration with hot water, you could the add it to your acid solution at a rate of 1-3% of total end solution. Thus your end per 5 gallon pail of mixed acid solution cost should be well under a dollar per pail. This gear is the base of a lot of detergents that are super diluted, so you can enjoy the cost savings.
Hope this helps,
The Teric PE 62 is made by a few chemical companies, is you speak to Dow Chemicals or Huntsman they should be able to put you on the right track. I have even used Ecoteric 60 which was a reject from a Lo'real hair care in 40 lb pails for $10.00 cut it down to 100 : 1 and it costs me under 50 c a gallon at this price you can afford to put a little more in.
if it was me I would try and source the Octyl phenol Ethyloxylates surfactant as and all round acid solution. The type to source is Triton X 100(Dow Chemical/Union Carbide), or Tigerfax 10(Tiger Chemical Company) as long as it has around 10 moles of Ethyloxylate it will do the trick. I would try some local chemical suppliers or do an internet search to source it locally.
You buy it by the Kg or pound in your case, the market value should be approximately $1.30- $1.40 per pound if you can try and source a supplier that will supply it to you in 40lb lots.
It comes as a fatty solid to which you reduce down to 30% concentration with hot water, you could the add it to your acid solution at a rate of 1-3% of total end solution. Thus your end per 5 gallon pail of mixed acid solution cost should be well under a dollar per pail. This gear is the base of a lot of detergents that are super diluted, so you can enjoy the cost savings.
Hope this helps,
The Teric PE 62 is made by a few chemical companies, is you speak to Dow Chemicals or Huntsman they should be able to put you on the right track. I have even used Ecoteric 60 which was a reject from a Lo'real hair care in 40 lb pails for $10.00 cut it down to 100 : 1 and it costs me under 50 c a gallon at this price you can afford to put a little more in.