I am trying to put my two pressure washer on a 600 gl tank. I have 2" comeing out of the bottom is there anything I need to do or will it feed the pumps. I tried it when it was about half full and the water didn't go into the pumps. I ran 1 1/2 pvc to 3/4 hose into the pumps.
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setting up tank
- Thread starter rrjp111
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See-It-Clean
New Member
We have a very similar set up, we run two 5 gpm machines off of a 525 gallon tank, what we had to do was put a bulk head on each side of the tank to run 2" pvc fittings as far as we could and then reduce it down to 3/4" to the machine. Being on separate intakes the machines dont interfere with each others draw. Make sure you put your in-line shut offs in the pvc. also the elbow that is located in the tank to pick up water from the bottom of the tank was removed to get better flow to the machines and pick up less sand particles from the bottom of the tank.
See-It-Clean
New Member
yeah had a family emergency down here in the south and havent been back up since we last spoke, sorry i havent gotten back to ya!
MightyMike
New Member
Hey man great mikes think alike. Ditto on the micron filter...u WILL thank him!
Dave Olson
New Member
<font color=e87400>
Your pump will siphon water from a tank without positive pressure on the supply line, BUT it will not draw water from the "START" unless the main water supply is HIGHER the pump, or the pump & line are primed. <i>Best way to understand this is; remember that water seeks it's own level, the line you run to your machine won't fill with water at the pumphead height until the water level in your tank has reached at least that height. Once it reaches that height the water will naturally flow into the pump & thus prime when started.</i> Once the machine is running & pumping it will draw water lower than the pump height
When setting up your supply lines from a tank as such, you can't use simple garden hose or the like. Plain type hose will collapse from the draw the pump will put on it, remember there is no positive pressure on the line to keep it rigid. <i>This collapse may not occur when regular hose is NEW, but rest assured it will eventually break it down & collapse it</i> Also, because of no positive pressure, you will need to use larger than normal lines to maintain adequate FLOW, GPM. Where you say you used a 3/4 hose, if it's more than a foot long I'd probably say use a 1 inch, & a reinforced 1 inch at that. Running hard PVC lines is the best bet, if it's a permanent setup run 1 1/4" all the way to your pump.
And yeah, put a filter on the lines & a ballvalve too. 20 micron stainless steel screen is my preference. Position the ballvalve in line so you can shut the water off when you clean out your filter.
Cody</font>
Your pump will siphon water from a tank without positive pressure on the supply line, BUT it will not draw water from the "START" unless the main water supply is HIGHER the pump, or the pump & line are primed. <i>Best way to understand this is; remember that water seeks it's own level, the line you run to your machine won't fill with water at the pumphead height until the water level in your tank has reached at least that height. Once it reaches that height the water will naturally flow into the pump & thus prime when started.</i> Once the machine is running & pumping it will draw water lower than the pump height
When setting up your supply lines from a tank as such, you can't use simple garden hose or the like. Plain type hose will collapse from the draw the pump will put on it, remember there is no positive pressure on the line to keep it rigid. <i>This collapse may not occur when regular hose is NEW, but rest assured it will eventually break it down & collapse it</i> Also, because of no positive pressure, you will need to use larger than normal lines to maintain adequate FLOW, GPM. Where you say you used a 3/4 hose, if it's more than a foot long I'd probably say use a 1 inch, & a reinforced 1 inch at that. Running hard PVC lines is the best bet, if it's a permanent setup run 1 1/4" all the way to your pump.
And yeah, put a filter on the lines & a ballvalve too. 20 micron stainless steel screen is my preference. Position the ballvalve in line so you can shut the water off when you clean out your filter.
Cody</font>
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J
jnoden
Guest
I just hooked a tank up to my machine and the only problem I have is priming it because it does sit a little lower than the washer. Do I need to put a priming bulb on the line or is there another way to acomplish this? I thought I read something about placing a balvalve at the inlet of the washer to help prime it.
<font color=e87400>I'm not sure if that would be sufficient, it may be. I think it's best to have the supply higher than your pump, at least to start. Better safe than sorry. It's always been my understanding that running a pump dry for any period is one of the worst things you can do to one. If the prime you try to create on it isn't adequate it may damage the pump. This is why I say have the supply higher than your pump, then it's gauranteed to have a good solid supply/flow of water when it starts.</font>
J
jnoden
Guest
I like the illustration. Im sure a lot of newcomers will appreciate that.
my water level Is always higher than the washers inlet but I still have problems priming it sometimes. I usually get it primed by connecting the hose to the washer while water is running out of the hose but i think im going to put a ball valve on the washers inlet to make this a little easier. I have a 1 inch reinforced hose between the tank and washer. Just added the tank at end of last year and I am adding the filter this week and mounting the tank. the Hudson Float Valve works verry well.
fwiw if disconnecting your trailer causes your tanks outlet to rise a little while the back of the tanks lowers, it will definately have problems pulling water from the tank even if it seems like only a slight angle.
my water level Is always higher than the washers inlet but I still have problems priming it sometimes. I usually get it primed by connecting the hose to the washer while water is running out of the hose but i think im going to put a ball valve on the washers inlet to make this a little easier. I have a 1 inch reinforced hose between the tank and washer. Just added the tank at end of last year and I am adding the filter this week and mounting the tank. the Hudson Float Valve works verry well.
fwiw if disconnecting your trailer causes your tanks outlet to rise a little while the back of the tanks lowers, it will definately have problems pulling water from the tank even if it seems like only a slight angle.