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stripper needed
- Thread starter Fairway
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i like the title
check out www.biowash.com
Also please give details about how you mixed your hd80 and what it did not work on.
Got a pic?
check out www.biowash.com
Also please give details about how you mixed your hd80 and what it did not work on.
Got a pic?
Greg Rentschler
New Member
If a hydroxide based solution doesn't work it's probably an acrylic or something of that nature. You'll probably need to go into a product like Back To Nature II or Bix.
Give me a call if I can be of any additional help.
Take Care,
Greg Rentschler
866-230-2419
Give me a call if I can be of any additional help.
Take Care,
Greg Rentschler
866-230-2419
Greg Rentschler
New Member
Alkyd/Acrylics can usually be stripped. They still have an oil base to them even though they incorporate an acrylic resin in the formula. We have stripped Cabot with that base and while it's a little more difficult it will come off. Best bet is to do a test spot before you bid just to CYB.
Greg Rentschler
Greg Rentschler
reedsterstl
New Member
I would be interested in reading how you mixed the HD80. IF mixed to full strength plus a "little bit more", it should have worked. Remember 15 minutes is the minumum for dwell time, if you take the time to let is dwell for 25 to 30, then it doesn't work, then I want to know why in case I run across your situation my self.
This is very interesting in that the HD80 didn't work.
Reed
This is very interesting in that the HD80 didn't work.
Reed
Aplus
New Member
I recently was asked to strip and redo a deck that was just done about a month ago. A new owner moved into a condo she just bought, and she does not like the color that the previous owner had finished it with. It is Cabots natural cedar semi-transparent.
HD80 was mixed at full strength. When sprayed onto the deck and railing, the Cabots laughed at it, and the HD80 just beaded up and rolled off, disgusted with itself. I was unable to remove any of the stain from the railing. On the flooring, HD80 removed maybe half the stain, at best.
I have started sanding the floor with a Makita orbital, equipped with an 8" scotch pad. It is removing the stain on the floor fine, but I'm not sure how I'm going to handle the spindles. The deck is on a second story, so it becomes more difficult being 16 feet up.
I know I'm snakebit on this one...........[one]
HD80 was mixed at full strength. When sprayed onto the deck and railing, the Cabots laughed at it, and the HD80 just beaded up and rolled off, disgusted with itself. I was unable to remove any of the stain from the railing. On the flooring, HD80 removed maybe half the stain, at best.
I have started sanding the floor with a Makita orbital, equipped with an 8" scotch pad. It is removing the stain on the floor fine, but I'm not sure how I'm going to handle the spindles. The deck is on a second story, so it becomes more difficult being 16 feet up.
I know I'm snakebit on this one...........[one]
Mike Hughes
New Member
If it's a small deck I'd just replace the spindles.
Greg Rentschler
New Member
It's probably the Cabot Decking Stains.... they have a urethane base to them that would repel Lake Michigan. Products that would likely remove it are Back To Nature and/or possibly BIX Tough Job.
Take Care,
Greg Rentschler
TimberSeal, Inc.
866-230-2419
Take Care,
Greg Rentschler
TimberSeal, Inc.
866-230-2419
Is hd-80 really what it claims to be?It looks harmless like laundry drt,mixes easy,but does it work well?I have used it twice,stripping cwf,seemed like i had miss a bunch of places .But thats not the problem,lasty job i had i had to apply it twice ,or more to get the stain out .I was hoping i had a tool for all
Johny
Johny
Greg Rentschler
New Member
Hi Johnny,
Unfortunately there is no tool for removal of all finishes..... hydroxide based strippers are most effective on oil based products but will usually break down latex based finishes as well. It acts to lift latex rather than to dissolve it.
This is why if you don't know what is on the wood is so important to do a test patch before bidding. You'll have preliminary results to base your bid off of. Without an idea of what it's going to take to remove it you have no idea of the time involved.... therefore could easily shoot yourself in the foot price wise.
In regard to the looks of HD-80.... chemicals come in many forms.. granular, liquid, vapor..... you name it. That doesn't even remotely make it harmless or ineffective. Our cleaners, brighteners, and strippers all are white to off white powdered concentrates... they look almost identical to one another but in no way act the same as one another in use.
Take Care,
Greg Rentschler
TimberSeal, Inc.
866-230-2419
Unfortunately there is no tool for removal of all finishes..... hydroxide based strippers are most effective on oil based products but will usually break down latex based finishes as well. It acts to lift latex rather than to dissolve it.
This is why if you don't know what is on the wood is so important to do a test patch before bidding. You'll have preliminary results to base your bid off of. Without an idea of what it's going to take to remove it you have no idea of the time involved.... therefore could easily shoot yourself in the foot price wise.
In regard to the looks of HD-80.... chemicals come in many forms.. granular, liquid, vapor..... you name it. That doesn't even remotely make it harmless or ineffective. Our cleaners, brighteners, and strippers all are white to off white powdered concentrates... they look almost identical to one another but in no way act the same as one another in use.
Take Care,
Greg Rentschler
TimberSeal, Inc.
866-230-2419
Greg, you have mentioned the BTN2 and Bix a couple of times lately. What is the chemistry of the BTN? I had sort of forgotten about it, but Jim sent me a small sample last year. It didn't touch a Painted deck, but I am sure I could probably put BTN to use. What types of finishes cause you to run for the BTN?
Also, are you doing anything special wrt environmental cleanup with stripping with Bix? Have shyed away from using because of types of solvents involved.
Also, are you doing anything special wrt environmental cleanup with stripping with Bix? Have shyed away from using because of types of solvents involved.
Greg Rentschler
New Member
Hi Bill,
We only use BTN and Bix as last resorts. BTN makes an entire line of products but the cost is usually prohibitive. We have removed polyurathanes and paints using BTN II. Dwell times are crucial when using it. The nice thing about using it on some projects is it removes the finish without furring the surface. As far as the chemistry behind it... no idea! Im sure its your typical toulene, acetone, yada yada... their claim to fame is the ability to keep the surface wet over an extended period of time.
Bix we have also used for Polyurathanes and shell type coatings on garage doors, entry doors, and the like. It's methylene chloride base is not the friendliest and has been banned in many states. It's still available in Indiana although. We use scrapers to remove the bulk of the material prior to washing but there is still residual that hits the ground.
Take Care,
Greg
We only use BTN and Bix as last resorts. BTN makes an entire line of products but the cost is usually prohibitive. We have removed polyurathanes and paints using BTN II. Dwell times are crucial when using it. The nice thing about using it on some projects is it removes the finish without furring the surface. As far as the chemistry behind it... no idea! Im sure its your typical toulene, acetone, yada yada... their claim to fame is the ability to keep the surface wet over an extended period of time.
Bix we have also used for Polyurathanes and shell type coatings on garage doors, entry doors, and the like. It's methylene chloride base is not the friendliest and has been banned in many states. It's still available in Indiana although. We use scrapers to remove the bulk of the material prior to washing but there is still residual that hits the ground.
Take Care,
Greg