What do you like?

[reedsterstl]

Of the products listed, I would use the sunbrite and wolmans about 50/50. I actually use for greyed out decks Citrolic nuetrilizer/brightener by extreme, and for cleaning efc 38. Believe it or not, the citrolic really works for getting just a grey deck back to new and very cost effective. Efc 38 does have a little peroxide in it so it you don't want to brighten after using it you don't, it will brighten by itself, but can be speeded along using the citrolic. This is a blend of oxalic and citris brighteners. Russ Cissell could explain this better.

Reed

 

[Marv]

Reed, as I understand it, SunBrite's Wood Brightener is a blend also. In what way does the Citrolic do better? I am currently targeting grey and neglected.

 

[reedsterstl]

It's not that it is any better in performance, it's safer to use. Citralic actually takes a little longer to neutralize.

Reed

 

[Tim Smith]

I use a percarbonate mixture like Ron

I neutralize with a oxalic & citric acid mixture (70 - 30 ratio).

 

[oneness]

Tim:

Does the oxalic/citric mix you use to neutralize also brighten? Forgive me if that is a stupid question...New to the business and doing my best to get a handle on what all the chemicals do, what ratios to use, etc. I'm assuming the 70/30 ratio you use is by weight? How much of that do you use per gallon of water?

Thanks!

 

[Tim Smith]

Yes neutralize the wood will brighten it.

I use a mixture for the following reason:
Oxalic is more harmful, but much better than Citric.
Citric cost more.


I will be glad to help you anyway I can. shoot me a email at tsmith@semo.edu. I'm not a chemical or equipment distributor - not trying to sell you anything.

My 4-Step Wood Restoration Process has work great for me.

 

[Marv]

Tim,
What are your four steps?

 

[Tim Smith]

Too much to go into detail

1. Inspection & Consultation
2. Restoration (Cleaning)
3. Maintenance (Sanding, Sinking nails, etc)
4. Preservation (Sealing, Staining, etc)

The key is educate the customer - Set yourself apart from the competition.

"You get what you pay for" - educate them on what they are paying for & produce a quality product.

Show them "Why" you are one if the not the highest bid.

 

[Marv]

Tim,
Thanks, I have read of many using a three step, and I have used that in a couple of letter/flyers. I did not think of the first one. Definately one of the steps we should be taking.

[uuu]

 

[Tim Smith]

1st step is very important

thats your opportunity to set yourself a part from the competition. Its the time to educate them.

also Inspect the property - put pre existing conditions in the contract.

 

[ron]

tim, when i sell i like to add a step to your list that you include in your description.
between #2 and #3 i add in the nuet./brightening as a step.
So i do the same work as you but exsplain it as 5 step's not 4.
I wonder if i can charge more then you because i ive "stepped up"
lol

 

[Tim Lynch]

None of the above.

A new deck to remove lumber glaze (redwood) I use Oxalic Acid. I wish you guys could see the results of redwood deck refinishing sometimes. But you all seem stuck with pressure treated wood from this board. (not that anything is wrong with that) Redwood is just a deck refinishers dream to work with. Cheers

Tim L

 

[Mathew Johnson]

None of the above.

A new deck to remove lumber glaze (redwood) I use Oxalic Acid. I wish you guys could see the results of redwood deck refinishing sometimes. But you all seem stuck with pressure treated wood from this board. (not that anything is wrong with that) Redwood is just a deck refinishers dream to work with. Cheers

Tim L

Ditto... NONE OF THE ABOVE