Eat Oils BT200

New Look

Registerd User
#21
Can anyone that has some time behind this product point me in the right direction of the ratios that work best?

I did a 1 gal. product to 4 gal mix of water to complete a 5 er...thought that was what everyone has been doing with BT200. Anyway did a job the other night with this ratio and ...well....wasn't impressed. Don't get me wrong..the concrete came clean but it just didn't tickle my fancy like the other product that I used. I xjetted and foaming was okay but not like I am used to.

I bumped up my ration on the next application (same job) at 1.5 BT200 to 3 Gal of water....xjetted better foam wise and did an okay job of cleaning but honestly didn't make my heart go "pitter patter".

Another question about BT200. The micro-organism that "work" long after your are doing washing. Do these micro-organisms need to be wet to be working?

Thanks!!!!
 
#22
I have only used the BT200 full strength, very small amount, applied directly to a pre dampened oil stain. Allowed it to "dwell" for up to 1 hour. Spun the entire driveway, rinsed. The old oil stains completely vanished.

Was very impressed. I have yet to have any of the other products I have used work as well on an existing oil stain. That being said, whenever I get the time (booked solid until ?????) I will do a side by side comparison of the BT200, the SW100, my old stand by Oil Sponge HD and a new product someone just sent me called G-Force. Just all about time right now boys and girls. I'm pretty sure me and my crews put in almost 190 hours this past week, giving everyone the day off, including myself. Here's the best damn flatwork crew in action yesterday morning, 30,000 square foot of flatwork, 4 trailer moves, all in less than 8 hours:

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At that ratio, a little bit will go a very long way. To downstream the product, for mild house and general concrete cleaning projects, I would think you'd have to experience a dilution rate of 10 to 1 in order to justify the cost of the product.
 

New Look

Registerd User
#23
Thanks Jim for the response. I am going to play around with the mix a little bit more tomorrow in S.F. on a residential job and then a another commercial job.

I understand the dwell times with BT that if the longer you let it dwell the better. When you are doing multiple accounts in 3 different states...time is of the essence for me. I can't afford to sit for an extra hour per location to watch chems dwell...but that is just me.
 

Mark

Moderator / Sponsor
#26
Dilution ratios for BT200
http://www.eatoils.com/images/products/BT200%20FAQ%20+%20DOSING.pdf

On the EatOils.com website they have a "Solution Finder"
you choose either: Residential, Commercial, or Industrial
then what you need to clean and it will show you the suggested
product to use for the cleaning application. BT200 is the recomendation
for cleaning restauraunt hoods & vents/ burnt on grease.

"
BT200(TM) Oil Stain Degreaser
NEW DEGREASER FORMULA - EATOILS™ BT200™ OUTPERFORMS ALL OTHERS TO SAFELY REMOVE ALL INDUSTRIAL AND AUTOMOTIVE OILS & GREASES – SOLVENT FREE, ECOLOGO™ CERTIFIED SAFE – CONTAINS NO HARSH CHEMICALS – YET IT DOES ALL THE TOUGH JOBS USING ONGOING NON-STOP CLEANING ACTION THAT KEEPS ON WORKING LONG AFTER YOU’RE DONE!

EATOILS™ BT200™ formula provides you with the best degreasing product for such tough jobs as: 1) removing stains from oil, tar, automotive fluids (transmission fluid, antifreeze, brake fluid, engine oils, lubricants, grease, radiator fluid, power steering fluid, gasoline, diesel, ethanol, rust-proofing, etc.), inboard/outboard boat fuel, gas/oil combinations for lawnmowers & small engines, cutting fluids, and grease from any surface including concrete and asphalt and soil, 2) deep cleaning factory floors to remove fork lift tire marks and other hard to remove stains, 3) degreasing all kinds of equipment including; machinery, painted finishes on metal & other surfaces, parts washing, truck washing, restaurant kitchen hoods, barbecues, oven racks, roof mounted Air conditioning & venting equipment, vinyl, wood, and man made surfaces (Formica, ceramic, Corian, Plexiglas, glass, etc.), 4) oil spill clean-up, 5) removing oils & other hydrocarbons from soil, automotive workshop floors & trench drains, etc., 6) removing oils, tars, grease and all kinds of oily materials from clothing, carpet, skin, upholstery, etc., 7) safe for hand and delicate cleaning in industrial and automotive applications, 8) safely cleaning mold & mildew without harsh chemicals, 9) cleaning oils and hydrocarbons from oily waste water, industrial processes and oil/water separators/interceptors, 10) removing scuff marks from wood floors without harming the finish and 11) cleaning windows and glass surfaces.

EATOILS™ BT200™ provides a more potent formula, a high microbial count, and a wider applicable temperature range than previous formulas.
"
EatOils Ecologo Certified Green Cleaning & Treatment Products | Main
 

Doug Rucker

PWN ADMIN TEAM -
Staff member
#27
Can anyone that has some time behind this product point me in the right direction of the ratios that work best?

I did a 1 gal. product to 4 gal mix of water to complete a 5 er...thought that was what everyone has been doing with BT200. Anyway did a job the other night with this ratio and ...well....wasn't impressed. Don't get me wrong..the concrete came clean but it just didn't tickle my fancy like the other product that I used. I xjetted and foaming was okay but not like I am used to.

I bumped up my ration on the next application (same job) at 1.5 BT200 to 3 Gal of water....xjetted better foam wise and did an okay job of cleaning but honestly didn't make my heart go "pitter patter".

Another question about BT200. The micro-organism that "work" long after your are doing washing. Do these micro-organisms need to be wet to be working?

Thanks!!!!
Carlos, you are doing it right and Jim's reply is dead on. And yes, the BT200 does require time to dwell. The amount of time depends on the severity of the stain as well as how long the stain has been there. Also , agitation is needed. If you are just spraying or X-jetting the BT200 onto the concrete with no agitation, then the results may be less than desired or expected.

The cleaning of the BT200 is all in the billions and billions of microbes that do the cleaning, and no the concrete does not have to be wet for them to work. It just helps to A)open the pores of concrete so the microbes can dive into the pores better, and B) helps to spread the BT200 out better so that you use less product.

Here is how I use the BT200 when cleaning a parking lot: I dampen the oil stains, apply a little BT200 to the stain, usually about the size of a quarter or silver dollar in a couple different spots, I then agitate the BT200 into the concrete with a stiff street broom, just until I get a good white lather to form. Once done with this and the BT200 has set for about 45 minutes to and hour, I clean using the scrubber, hot or cold water. While hot of course will work better, cold water will work also. I do this process individually to each oil stain, one by one. This process is done with two pump up sprayers and a broom. One sprayer is filled with water, the other is filled with BT200 full strength. I spray water on the stain, then spray BT200 on a couple different areas within the stain, agitate with the broom, and move on to the next oil stain. This process takes me about 20-30 seconds per spot.

For maintenance purposes, (lots' that are cleanined on a monthly basis) you can dilute 5 ounces to gallon of water, spray on, agitate, and then clean.

The longer you can leave the BT200 on the better it will work. I realize time is of the essence on these job's, but unfortunately when using GREEN cleaning products, that is part of the nature of the beast.

Hope this helps and sorry it took so long to repsond, but today being Sunday we had a long day at Church today.

Carlos, I was wondering if you can direct me to where I can get a MSDS on the SW1000. I have not been able to find one anywhere online. Do you have one you could email me?
 

Doug Rucker

PWN ADMIN TEAM -
Staff member
#28
What kind of oil/grease do the bugs eat? Petroleum bases or kichen grease?
HI Doug, while the bug's in the BT200 are designed for petroleum based oil, greases, and fluids, it will also do an excellent job on kitchen greases also. However, the Super Floor Degreaser (SFD) Microbe/Enzymes are specifically designed for animal fats, cooking oils and restaraunt greases. If your dealing with real heavy concentrations of these types of oils and greases then the SFD is the product you'd want. The SFD is also what I use when cleaning in and around dumpster pads.

Hope this helps.
 

New Look

Registerd User
#29
Carlos, you are doing it right and Jim's reply is dead on. And yes, the BT200 does require time to dwell. The amount of time depends on the severity of the stain as well as how long the stain has been there. Also , agitation is needed. If you are just spraying or X-jetting the BT200 onto the concrete with no agitation, then the results may be less than desired or expected.

The cleaning of the BT200 is all in the billions and billions of microbes that do the cleaning, and no the concrete does not have to be wet for them to work. It just helps to A)open the pores of concrete so the microbes can dive into the pores better, and B) helps to spread the BT200 out better so that you use less product.

Here is how I use the BT200 when cleaning a parking lot: I dampen the oil stains, apply a little BT200 to the stain, usually about the size of a quarter or silver dollar in a couple different spots, I then agitate the BT200 into the concrete with a stiff street broom, just until I get a good white lather to form. Once done with this and the BT200 has set for about 45 minutes to and hour, I clean using the scrubber, hot or cold water. While hot of course will work better, cold water will work also. I do this process individually to each oil stain, one by one. This process is done with two pump up sprayers and a broom. One sprayer is filled with water, the other is filled with BT200 full strength. I spray water on the stain, then spray BT200 on a couple different areas within the stain, agitate with the broom, and move on to the next oil stain. This process takes me about 20-30 seconds per spot.

For maintenance purposes, (lots' that are cleanined on a monthly basis) you can dilute 5 ounces to gallon of water, spray on, agitate, and then clean.

The longer you can leave the BT200 on the better it will work. I realize time is of the essence on these job's, but unfortunately when using GREEN cleaning products, that is part of the nature of the beast.

Hope this helps and sorry it took so long to repsond, but today being Sunday we had a long day at Church today.

Carlos, I was wondering if you can direct me to where I can get a MSDS on the SW1000. I have not been able to find one anywhere online. Do you have one you could email me?
Just sent it Doug and thanks to you and everyone for the detailed explanation...I just need to sit down and read them and absorb what I am reading. We are busy...busier than expected which is a blessing. Phone was ringing throughout the weekend PLUS I have a TON of things to do via our website, SEO, PostCards, reading more of Ants Marketing threads and etc.....

'Los
 
#30
Hello, guys!
I just had a job cleaning a concrete driveway with a few power steering stains. The concrete has a pigment (probably mixed when poured, rather then stained) and is of reddish hue. I didn`t have anything besides CreteClean and was using hot water, my pressure washer is 4000psi. Some stains are gone, but two big ones are still there - where the car was sitting and dripping power steering fluid. If I apply this BT200 on the stains now, will I have to pressure wash the area again, or just rinse?
thank you,
Val
 
#31
I'm assuming the temperatures are near freezing in Aspen, Colorado this time of year. Not sure how that severe cold will effect the microbes of the BT200. Hopfully Doug or Mark will chime in. We don't have the freezing problems here. The heat of our summers are actually beneficial, as the oils actually "pump" to the surface, and the enzymes go on the attack.

The longer you allow the product to dwell, the better. I have used a different product for years. Many times the "shadow" would remain. I would apply a second application of the product, and it would eventually dry leaving a white film. The enzymes where alive and well, and in a feeding frenzy. I would ask the property owner to lightly hose down the area once per month (if it hadn't rained).

I have revisited properties with heavy, diesel oil stains, years old, and after 5 to 6 months, the "shadow" vanished.

Hello, guys!
I just had a job cleaning a concrete driveway with a few power steering stains. The concrete has a pigment (probably mixed when poured, rather then stained) and is of reddish hue. I didn`t have anything besides CreteClean and was using hot water, my pressure washer is 4000psi. Some stains are gone, but two big ones are still there - where the car was sitting and dripping power steering fluid. If I apply this BT200 on the stains now, will I have to pressure wash the area again, or just rinse?
thank you,
Val
 

Doug Rucker

PWN ADMIN TEAM -
Staff member
#32
Hello, guys!
I just had a job cleaning a concrete driveway with a few power steering stains. The concrete has a pigment (probably mixed when poured, rather then stained) and is of reddish hue. I didn`t have anything besides CreteClean and was using hot water, my pressure washer is 4000psi. Some stains are gone, but two big ones are still there - where the car was sitting and dripping power steering fluid. If I apply this BT200 on the stains now, will I have to pressure wash the area again, or just rinse?
thank you,
Val
Since you have already cleaned the area, I would apply the BT200 at 5 ounces per gallon of water, lightly agitate, and leave. (For faster results, dampen stain, apply BT200 full strength, agitate) You can go back later and rinse, or wait for the rain to clean the remaining shadow.

When the weather get's colder, say 40 or below, it will hinder the microbes, but not totally render them ineffective. For temps this low, I will mix the BT200 with some warm water and then apply to the stain.

Dealing with stain concrete and bT200: Very important to determine if the color is stain or in the concrete. If it is stain the BT200 may not eat through the stain. Bt if you have used hot water already, there is a chance you may have removed enough of the stain to allow the BT200 to penetrate. Just depends on the amount of stain that was applied, if the stain was aplied on top of the oil, or did the oil drip onto the applied stain. Nay easy way to dteremine if it is stain is to drop a little water on the concrete of an area right next to the oil stain. If it soaks in to the concrete, then your good. If the water stand's on the concrete then it may haved been stained.

Hope this helps.
 

New Look

Registerd User
#33
.....another thing to consider is whether or not the concrete is sealed. If concrete is sealed then soaps will not penetrate the concrete.
 
#34
Food bank.jpg Doug,

I have a graffiti stain on a porous firebrick walled building. This is the brick material. I could not determine the source of the graffiti (possibly a oil/lacquer based product) and took the washer to it. It colored down a bit and I pitted a little of the brick working on the stain. The stain is lighter but looks to have imbeded into the porous material and still holding fairly well at the surface. I do not want to use the wand any more unless for a rinse only. Would an application of BT200 be a good idea to draw out the stain to the surface? If so how would you apply it in this case and for how long?
 

Doug Rucker

PWN ADMIN TEAM -
Staff member
#35
I doub that BT200 would work on that. Check w Carlos, he does a lot of grafitti removal. I think the supplier he uses has a GREEN graffiti remover that would work.
 

New Look

Registerd User
#37
I doub that BT200 would work on that. Check w Carlos, he does a lot of grafitti removal. I think the supplier he uses has a GREEN graffiti remover that would work.
Try BK Enterprises Graffiti Removal Products. Good stuff and they sale "contractor packs" that are reasonable.

I also used Taginator as well as they sent me a sample kit just recently. I tried it on a brick building that had graffiti on it...came out good!
 
#38
Try BK Enterprises Graffiti Removal Products. Good stuff and they sale "contractor packs" that are reasonable.

I also used Taginator as well as they sent me a sample kit just recently. I tried it on a brick building that had graffiti on it...came out good!
Will do Carlos.
 
#39
Finally got a chance to use bt200 that stuff rocks.

@carlos thanks for the 411 on that bt200 this past weekend it was great to finally meat a legend in the pw industry.

@Doug great product sir ill be placing my order soon do you have a distributor in the Los Angeles area ?
 

Doug Rucker

PWN ADMIN TEAM -
Staff member
#40
Finally got a chance to use bt200 that stuff rocks.

@carlos thanks for the 411 on that bt200 this past weekend it was great to finally meat a legend in the pw industry.

@Doug great product sir ill be placing my order soon do you have a distributor in the Los Angeles area ?
Carlos, call MArk at Easy CLean, he stocks the BT200. Glad to hear you like it. What did you use it on?
 

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