Roof and Patio Disaster

[Dan Mauser]

Wow :-(

I went to my first pressure washing job today, a composite roof and some walks and patio.

Things I'd do differently:

1) Not accept the job until I've done my own house first.

2) Learn how to put the fall prevention harness on when in the store. I rented the harness, catch thingy, and rope, but figured it would be simple to put on. I ended up hooking the catch and rope to my belt since I couldn't figure out the harness.

3) Get something like a PitchWitch or something so I don't have to go ontop of the roof. There were many different levels and gables. It took me way too long to do the small area I did. Had to get the 40 degree tip real close to the shingle tabs, and even then some of the moss stayed. I sprayed the chemicals on, waited a few minutes and then hosed off. I didn't see much difference with the chemicals. I still had to get point-blank to get anything done.

4) The rope system even when working well wouldn't be enough for me. It would be good to go up and down but not sideways. Again, I think getting up on the roofs is real inefficient. Can a PitchWitch completely take care of all the roof stuff?

5) I wouldn't believe the 'non-zebra' quality of rotary surface cleaners. I rented one, about 18" wide, went with just plain cold water over exposed aggregate, overlapping about 50% each pass and it looks terrible! Stripes, Stripes, Stripes! It also seemed the brush supported model I had didn't let the water out fast enough. Maybe that is why there wasn't uniform cleaning. Would wheeled models do better?

What makes this experience really tough is I only have tomorrow to finish and also do the windows. Either that or I'll have to tell them it'll be a couple weeks since we're going on vacation. Not a good start for a relationship.

I'd appreciate your comments,
Dan

 

[Mark]

Dan,

How big of an exposed aggregate area, what are you trying
to clean off of the surface? I assume the roof is OK?

Maybe we can help bail you pout of this mess
Do you have a Hot HP washer or just cold water?


I will watch for your reply.

Standing by..............

 

[Jon Fife]

take a deep breath, learn, move on.


You could always clean the agg.concrete with your wand, would eliminate the stripes. when you say aggregate, you mean the pea gravel was exposed, right?? Seems like it would be hard to tiger stripe that. You could spray brightener on it, may help, do a test. Might try scrubbing roof with a brush, i've seen people do it that way, I have heard you void a roofs' warranty if you pressure wash it. Good luck, every one of us has had problem jobs before, you'll fix it and they'll be happy.

 

[Dan Mauser]

Mark:

The aggregate is mainly a walk way ~3x100 and the patio is ~100x20, a pretty good sized one. There isn't anything much on them, but certainly look better after being cleaned. The whole surface gets flooded when cleaned and it's hard to tell what was done until all the water goes away.

The roof looks okay from a distance, except for several patches of moss below the downspouts and in shady areas.

I have just cold water, but could rent a hot box, I think.

Standing by,
Dan

 

[Jon Fife]

i definitely wouldn't use the surface cleaner. use a wand, you'll have to get down low and shoot water horizontally and keep your area free of water so you can see what you are doing. If it is not able to drain and you have to blow the water like this, prepare for a messy job, better have on a rainsuit, or you'll probably get soaked.

 

[Mark]

I am not sure why the surface cleaner gave you problems,
but that does not matter at this point, time to salvage the job.

I agree probably time to use the wand with either a 25 or 15 degree nozzle,
dont get in a hurry and try to apply an even spray to all surfaces.

GOOD LUCK [nb]

Dont worry too much just do your best, you are doing the right thing
by asking for [help]

In a year or so you will laugh when you think about this job.

 

[Dan Mauser]

Jon:

Yes, the exp. ag. has is pea gravel, like you say. It was getting dark about the time I finished the first pass on the flatwork, when I noticed the striping. There's a chance that it's striped where the dirt settled after being lifted by the surface cleaner. Either way I'll have to use a wand, like you mentioned.

This patio has lots of shells, dirt piles and the like near the edges. I'd planned on blowing them out with the wand too.

The roof brush might be a possibility. I had my digital camera out there, too much of a hurry to shoot. Anyway, it's a two story house with maybe a 7/12 pitch (don't know for sure. It's steeper than my own 5/12). I'd have to get extensions or something for the brush cuz some mossy areas are 20' from the edge. Not much leverage standing on a ladder up 20' off the ground and having to reach that far. I've pretty much ruled out getting up on the roof again.

Dan

 

[Dan Mauser]

Mark and Jon:

Almost forgot to thank you for reminding me to take it easy.

They say Walt Disney went bankrupt before building his empire, Mickey Mantle led the league in strike-outs, Thomas Edison tried hundreds of different filaments before getting it right, Abe Lincoln lost a few elections (even as an incumbent), etc.

I like the expression 'Be thankful for your problems, otherwise there would never be no solutions'

Cheers,
Dan

 

[Mike Hughes]

Dan,

See if you can get your hands on a turbo (rotating nozzle). It will save you alot of time when using the wand, and will prevent some of the dirt/water from splashing up on you.

I did a patio this summer that had alot of standing water on it, so I feel for you...........thats where the wand comes in handy......just blast the water off of it every now and then.

Good luck.

 

[mhpoole]

Practice, Practice, Practice.....

This Job is a total loss for profit and pride, the only thing you can do is be honest to your customer. Take your time get the job done right. Dont hurry and mess things up, take your time and do it right. I would stick with the wand for the whole job, and have a 4 ft wand to save your back. And next time practice on your home, until you feel comforatable.

Mark Poole

 

[Steven Rowlet]

Dan, The Pitchwitch will work for most roofs. It works best on Cape Cod style roofs. As for the chemicals how much dwell time did you allow for and what chemicals did you use? My guess on the surface cleaner is that the nozzles were out of adjustment. If one nozzle is out of adjustment from the other it will create a zebra effect. Also make sure both arms are the same distance from the deck of the surface cleaner. The wrong angle of the nozzler will make a world of difference.

 

[BryanL]

I always expect to have to use the wand for atleast a rinse, after using the surface cleaner, simply because the surface cleaner tends to loosen the dirt but it leaves it in place, it usually takes a quick going over with the wand to finish for spot cleaning and to push the loosened dirt away.

 

[Steven Rowlet]

Dan, I forgot to tell you, Home Depot has a small water pump (Little Giant )you can use to help drain the patio with. They cost around $60.00 and will drain down to a 1/4", 1/8" without screen filter. There is also a Sludge Pump you can attach to your pressure washer. Hope this helps!

 

[Dan Mauser]

Thanks for the input, folks.

See the next couple posts for pics.

I finished the flatwork with a cold wand at about 6" from the surface. Took about 6 hours for 3000 ft. Used some bleach/soap combo on it, but didn't seem to work real great. I let it stand for 15' to over an hour.

On the roof attempt a couple days ago, I emptied 1/2 gallon outdoor clorox and soap on about 600 sq ft, let it sit for 5-10 minutes.

cheers,
Dan

 

[Dan Mauser]

Here's one pic and another one is on the next post:

 

[Dan Mauser]

Yeah! it worked!

Another: From the first picture, stay left and walk around back. The brick on the left of the last picture is visible here:

 

[Richard R.]

Dan, I know it's to late to help, but maybe my two cents will help on your next job.
I have found no better way to do the most efficient job except the way Mike said. You definitely need to get a turbo nozzle. It doesn't get any better than that. It may not be as fast as a surface cleaner, but on residential concrete work, it's faster than any other tip you can use and it will clean better than any other cleaner I know, including any surface cleaner I've heard of so far. Besides, on residential jobs that you will probably only clean every year or two, you need to get it as clean as you possibly can. This is the best way that I know you can do it.
I have yet to see a suface cleaner on wheels that can do the job of a turbo nozzle. The more you use a turbo nozzle the more you learn the benefits of it toward many other jobs. There are a few different types you can use, but there is one on the market that does a better job than all I have ever used. I buy it from the universal end caps in my local TSC (Tractor Supply Company). It alread comes with a turbo filter. I cringe every time I see it on the shelf. It is the best kept secret I know of and is the best weapon in my arsenal.
You never have to worry about applying any chemicals unless you have a grease or a petroleum type spot. When I am faced with a petroleum spot, I will then apply chemicals and hit it hard with a 15 degree tip. It usually comes right up if the chemical is right and I then revert back to the turbo. It just seems to cover more territory at a faster rate. As for the roof, I can't add to that.
For regular commercial work like convenience stores, grocery stores and such, I would not recommend the turbo nozzle because it slows you down. If you do regular maintenance, using the surface cleaner and a good concrete detergent will eventually get the concrete satisfactory clean, that is if your cleaning it every two or three months. It just takes a few more cleanings to do it and you can move on to you next job. Within a few months, all of your jobs will be spic and span and you can move on to more contracts. The reason for knowing this is observing and learning from Rick with Pro Wash, the best in the business around here in my area. He has it down to a fine art and is very successful.

Hope it helps,

Richard R.

 

[Dan Mauser]

Thanks, Richard.

I didn't mean to ignor Mike's suggestion about the turbo. I didn't want to buy another tool without seeing what I could do with just the wand.

What kind is this turbo you talk about? If there are different grades of turbo, of course I'd like the best.

And you feel that a 3000 sq ft job would be done best with a turbo and not a surface cleaner? I imagine I will be getting mainly residential work in the future.

We certainly have tractor shops around here.

Merry Christmas,
Dan

 

[Steven Rowlet]

Dan, I like the Dirt Killer turbo. I still feel that a Steel Eagle surface cleaner with 15 degree nozzles, the right chemicals and hot water should clean most of the concrete you come across. I use the turbo with a stronger concentration on the oil spots.

 

[Richard R.]

Dan,
There are probably to many to name. I don't think mine is the best one out, but it does a better job than the first one I bought. I found one just like it the other day at TSC in the universal power wash and parts section. The one I have has a filter built on it.

I think it's about $59.00. I would like to try the new twin turbo that recently came out.
There is one out called the viper that's advertised to very powerful.
The best way to check the power is to use your surface cleaner on a section first and come back and use the turbo. If the turbo cleans where the surface cleaner had already cleaned, you know you have a good one. I have never seen a surface cleaner yet that could beat a turbo nozzle.
Here are a few, but check Glenn and Mark first. They might be able to get you a better price.

http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin...CH.d2w/report?KEYWORDS=turbo+nozzle&PHOTOS=on

Richard R.