Siding

[squirtgun]

Tim,
Glen doesn't post here anymore or on any other BBS for that matter.

You can contact him through his website http://www.pitchwitch.com if the link isn't pulled.

 

[tlhfirelion]

Thanks!

Hey thanks man I appreciate the help.

Tim

 

[bj102598]

let me know where to get this chem.

where can i get the chem. please let me know

 

[bj102598]

where can I get it. my email is zootfoot@yahoo.com

 

[bj102598]

mr. Brantley,

i have a question... it may be goofy cuz i am a newby but i have a downstream where I can only apply detergent with the low pressure tip (black). How can I apply with a stronger tip as it only works with the black tip? Do i need some kind of attachment? I guess I have a downstream. its the kind where I hook the clear hose to the pump and put the other end in detergent. thanks so much

 

[Harold Brantley]

I'll try to answer your question thougt I don't know what you mean by stronger tip. Let me briefly explain a down stream chemical injector. They use a venturi tube that allows a side chemical to be drawn into the main stream only when the outlet stream is droped below a certain psi. This could be 300 to 800 psi + 0r - but significantly below the normal 3K to 5K psi main stream.

The black tip nozzle you referred to usually means it is wide angled and 30 to 50 in size. This is a large hole which drops the psi to the 300 to 800 psi range and starts drawing in the side chemical and will shoot a wide spray abpot 10 feet. Each chemical injector will have its own switch over point that will let the injector start drawing side chemicals.

The nozzles I use regularly are just above and just below that point to allow rinsing at low pressure and to allow long distance chemical spraying. None of these nozzles are "standard" and don't have the colored tips but they are far superior to the standard colored tip nozzles in what they allow you to do. Use of the proper angle and size nozzles can greatly speed up your work with less damage from high pressure and less wear and tear on your pump and engine. I do most 2 and 3 story homes with a 30" wand and no x-jet. Why would anyone want to take the chemicals around with them in a bucket? I do use ladders and extension wands but only 2 to 3 times a month. I use the extension wand usually to get stuborn wasp nests down.

Experience is the best teacher, but using someone elses experience can shorten the trip. Sorry for the rambling but hope this helps someone.

 

[dgexpress]

dgexpress

sodiumhypochorite is it safe to use on all colors of siding ? :burn:

 

[tnmayala]

Can you send me the name of the chemical I can investigate it. Also, have you seen this product on www.sprayandforget.com Looks interesting but it doesn't say how long it takes to work.

 

[sinecure]

glenn...the stuff you use...

...do tell me glenn what the stuff is that you use, as I'm about to go to a pool supple place for 12% bleach or higher and would really like to find something that's more enviromentally friendly to me and the plants...

...my e-mail is mark@first-stone.org...thanks in advance, sir!!

 

[Aplus]

As mentioned a few posts back....Glenn does not post here anymore.

 

[squirtgun]

...do tell me glenn what the stuff is that you use, as I'm about to go to a pool supple place for 12% bleach or higher and would really like to find something that's more enviromentally friendly to me and the plants...

...my e-mail is mark@first-stone.org...thanks in advance, sir!!

Chlorine is an effect mold killer when mixed with the right soaps for siding and is the approved method for the roofing manufacturers and when used properly it poses no more threat than any other cleaner on the market.
If you take the time to wet vegetation before,during and after you clean a house or roof you shouldn't have problems.Chlorine breaks down into salt through bio-remediation,I really don't understand the fear of it not being enviro friendly.

What part of Ga. are you from?

 

[jandjsales]

house washing

I have been in the business over ten years, i have always used the same method, and will continue to do so. i am in the pressure washing business, not the bleach and rinse business. So in my opinion, some of the work is done by the chemical, but most of it is done by the operator, and i do use my ladder and extension wands to get those high areas, dormers etc. i have always used household bleach, dollar store bleach is 5 to 6%, ($1.00 per gallon) and even with this i can dilute it (3 gal bleach to 2 gal water) prior to going through my injector. i spray the bleach on with a 40 dgree soap tip, when the algae starts turning brown (2-3 mins), i then soap it down with a detergent that i also use on trucks. the detergent breaks the algae, dirt and chalk down. when i rinse, i use a 40 degree tip and unlike most competitors in my area, i actually pressure wash the siding, one board at a time. the pressure removes the dirt/algae residue and chalkiness on the siding. I brush windows and do a light rinse on them, this is very pleasing to the customer. on the stubborn black gutter stains i use the same detergent straight and at times i will brush the gutters to whiten them up. the same detergent also works good on getting mud off foundations and cleans decks. most of my customers are repeats and referals, and more than one has told me, " the last guy that washed my house didn't spend near as much time as you, and they never used a ladder or brush" I get the most comments about windows being clean and not streaked.

I keep all my other chemicals in 55 gallon drums, but the shelf life on bleach is not great, so i just prefer the by the gallon approach on it.. also I have seen some of the stronger bleach solutions bleach out painted siding and stained decks, and killed grass.

what i would like to find is a product to spray on the siding to make it last longer before the alge starts again.

just my 2 cents.

Jeff G

 

[squirtgun]

I have been in the business over ten years, i have always used the same method, and will continue to do so. i am in the pressure washing business, not the bleach and rinse business. So in my opinion, some of the work is done by the chemical, but most of it is done by the operator, and i do use my ladder and extension wands to get those high areas, dormers etc. i have always used household bleach, dollar store bleach is 5 to 6%, ($1.00 per gallon) and even with this i can dilute it (3 gal bleach to 2 gal water) prior to going through my injector. i spray the bleach on with a 40 dgree soap tip, when the algae starts turning brown (2-3 mins), i then soap it down with a detergent that i also use on trucks. the detergent breaks the algae, dirt and chalk down. when i rinse, i use a 40 degree tip and unlike most competitors in my area, i actually pressure wash the siding, one board at a time. the pressure removes the dirt/algae residue and chalkiness on the siding. I brush windows and do a light rinse on them, this is very pleasing to the customer. on the stubborn black gutter stains i use the same detergent straight and at times i will brush the gutters to whiten them up. the same detergent also works good on getting mud off foundations and cleans decks. most of my customers are repeats and referals, and more than one has told me, " the last guy that washed my house didn't spend near as much time as you, and they never used a ladder or brush" I get the most comments about windows being clean and not streaked.

I keep all my other chemicals in 55 gallon drums, but the shelf life on bleach is not great, so i just prefer the by the gallon approach on it.. also I have seen some of the stronger bleach solutions bleach out painted siding and stained decks, and killed grass.

what i would like to find is a product to spray on the siding to make it last longer before the alge starts again.

just my 2 cents.

Jeff G

Jeff,
I don't know of anyone that uses chlorine staight.It is diluted down and mixed with soaps and other additives prior to application.Buying 10.5% and diluting is more cost effective for us than buying by the gallon.We use 30+ gallons of chlorine most weeks,so there is little chance for it to lose any of it's strength.
You apply chems twice and I apply once.Our housewash mix contains the chlorine,soap,rinse aid and wax.Once applied it is allowed to dwell and then rinsed clean with low pressure.We also brush windows to help reduce streaking.Gutters usually come clean with our normal housewash,but for the really stubborn black stains,we use a buytl based cleaner.
However,my customers do not expect me to spend all day washing their homes and prefer us not to use ladders and a pressure washer at the same time while on their property.They understand that we are equipped to do the job in a time efficient manner and they are more than willing to pay,as well as,refer us to their friends.

Try a wax additive with your house wash mix to extend the time before mold/algae grows back.

What is the truck wash soap you use?What part if Ga.?

 

[taselton2]

IT LOOKS LIKE MOST EVERYONE IS USING THE SAME CLEANING AGENT, FOR THE MOST PART. I USE BLEACH AND SOAP AT ABOUT 5% FOR SIDING.
http://www.softwashing.com

 

[jandjsales]

Jeff,
I don't know of anyone that uses chlorine staight.It is diluted down and mixed with soaps and other additives prior to application.Buying 10.5% and diluting is more cost effective for us than buying by the gallon.We use 30+ gallons of chlorine most weeks,so there is little chance for it to lose any of it's strength.
You apply chems twice and I apply once.Our housewash mix contains the chlorine,soap,rinse aid and wax.Once applied it is allowed to dwell and then rinsed clean with low pressure.We also brush windows to help reduce streaking.Gutters usually come clean with our normal housewash,but for the really stubborn black stains,we use a buytl based cleaner.
However,my customers do not expect me to spend all day washing their homes and prefer us not to use ladders and a pressure washer at the same time while on their property.They understand that we are equipped to do the job in a time efficient manner and they are more than willing to pay,as well as,refer us to their friends.

Try a wax additive with your house wash mix to extend the time before mold/algae grows back.

What is the truck wash soap you use?What part if Ga.?

I sometimes mix the soap and bleach, but its just my preference to do the two step wash. I also use alot of bleach weekly, but thats one thing my chemical manufacture does not have, so instead of ordering the bleach from another manufacture i just clean the shelves at my local dollar general (1/2 mile from my shop) my experience in stocking bleach also is the vapors corrode everything in my shop, seems like it leaks past the drum seal. and if it sits there long enough it looks like it penetrates through the drum and eats the concrete. Also bleach around here has become hard to get, since the big chemical fire a few years ago. bleach fumes just about shutdown one side of atlanta, now everyone is spooked to have it in quatities and higher concentrations. I have tried the wax, but seemed to make no differnce to me, can't remember what i used. what do you use. the stuff i used was applied after the wash, sort of like the hot wax at a car wash. i am about 40 miles south of atlanta.
truck wash i use is the typical brown truck wash most people use, sodium hydroxide based. i use a butyl/sodium metacasilicate cleaner for polished aluminum tanks and wheels.

what people around here like to see if someone working for their money, they don't like to see someone charge 150 to 250.00 for a hour worth of work. I have went behind someone else on six houses this year, and i quoted another one last week that was done poorly about a month ago.

Jeff G

 

[jandjsales]

Tim,
I filled out your contact section with a question.

Thanks, Jeff G

 

[spraypro]

whats is your email Glenn, i would like to talk to you about a few things, im just getting started. thanks